My wife has suggested I buy a DL1000 to replace my 2012 DL650. I only have about 138,000 km or about 85,500 miles on my 2012 DL650 and have a few silly electrical relates issues. Otherwise runs great and I am sure it would run for a hundred thousand more KM's easily.
I have seen some issues here on the VEE2 but not a summary and wonder if I should get a 2015 with the hope that silly issues are taken care of. Any thoughts on that?
So what issues have you had with your 2014+ DL1000?
Sorry if there is a thread on this already.. I don't seem to see one.
Are spark plugs Iridium? If so yes expensive but most people probably don't need to change them. (And I bet they are still way less than my GTI.) I changed my first set of plugs on my 2012 Dl650 at 112,700 km or 70,028 miles. There really was no need to replace them.. they looked perfectly al right.
Now that I have a little more time, the connectors on the top rear of the radiator seem to be more easily water infiltrated and subject to corrosion than other models. The wiring harness at the rear of the tank has gotten chafed through for a couple of owners. The battery ground wire connection to the engine case likes to corrode. The wiring color code is a bit different for a few things. It doesn't have a real heated grip connector, just a 3A fused auxiliary connector. A speedo correction doesn't have a plug and play option so installation would require cutting into one wire and splicing into two others. Idle hammer, clutch chudder, and lean fueling don't seem to be as bad as earlier models, but some individual specimens may show some issues. Both V-Strom clutch gurus have written the clutch isn't that much different from the old Vee though it is a bit better.
Now that I have a little more time, the connectors on the top rear of the radiator seem to be more easily water infiltrated and subject to corrosion than other models. The wiring harness at the rear of the tank has gotten chafed through for a couple of owners. The battery ground wire connection to the engine case likes to corrode. The wiring color code is a bit different for a few things. It doesn't have a real heated grip connector, just a 3A fused auxiliary connector. A speedo correction doesn't have a plug and play option so installation would require cutting into one wire and splicing into two others. Idle hammer, clutch chudder, and lean fueling don't seem to be as bad
as earlier models, but some individual specimens may show some issues. Both V-Strom clutch gurus have written the clutch isn't that much different from the old Vee though it is a bit better.
I wonder if any of the issues have been resolved on the 2015 models? I have a feeling some of the stuff like wiring chaffing relates to being a new model (and I think I have some of that going on with my 2012 DL650.) Perhaps the 2015 has some improvements under the skin and is worth spending a bit more for it?
My 2012 has been sitting outside all it's life but it looks like we are going to get some inside parking for the bikes so that might help a bit with wiring/corrosion..
VTom, mine will hit 30000+ km's this weekend. Only issue I've had was rear rack paint ( Suzuki Canada replaced it ) in the past have owned 2Vee's, 1 Wee, love this new 1000.
Very small Knit-Picky stuff is all I have seen so far on the forum! Mine had the wire chafing Greywolf wrote about. My paint on the rack has been fine and I now have almost 13k miles. I love the bike! In my opinion, if you can get a great deal on 2014, pull the trigger!
Where was the wire chaffing? I think some of the issues I have with the 2012 DL650 are perhaps related to that kind of issue and I us spect this is the kind of thing that might be resolved on the second year of production. Do you have a picture (or a link to a thread that has pictures) that gives an idea where to look for chaffing?
Agreed! I like the look of the bike, actually I LOVE this bike, maybe even more than my previous DL1Ks, which I wouldn't have thought possible a few months ago.
Recently upped to a 2015 Vee2 from a 2014 Glee. 10,000 km and no running issues to report. Suzuki have made a few budget cuts such as plastic rear rack that the paint rubs off of easily and no heated grip connector with the accessory plug being difficult to access. Clutch can be a bit noisy at idle but once on the move that disappears. I believe the wiring issues were corrected for 2015.
The adjustable screen and 12v power outlet are a nice feature and the brakes and suspension are a big upgrade from the 650. Engine is not as pliable as the 650 but soon mastered and the extra squirt is a big grin factor.
I had a 2011 Wee and this bike is all around better. Certainly if you can get a good deal on '14 you won't regret it. I think in the past there were quite a few Wee riders who went to a 1K and then back to the 650. It might have happened with the V2 but I haven't heard of anyone wishing they were back on their 650. I may be wrong but I think this upgrade has the vast majority of owners extremely satisfied. Aside from the few "minor" irritants mentioned, overall the V2 is a very, very good bike.
Hi Tom
I have 44,000 km on my 2012 dl650 and recently (October) rode a new 1000 throughout Greece, two up for just over 2 weeks. Loved the torque and highway manners (130km/hr on the Athens bypass road and we took it at 150 km/hr with little effort), the DL650 would be a bit strained at these speeds 2 -up.
You can get in serious legal troubles with this bike due to the quick acceleration. Great suspension, esp with two up on choppy roads, superior brakes and damn but I just did not like that hydraulic clutch and slipper clutch on the twisty greek roads, but probably not a problem in Ontario (was constantly hitting the brakes on the twisties due to limited engine braking and the clutch was difficult to feather). Not sure you would need a fork brace on this bike either.
As a rental with 10,000 km on it at the time, the bike road well. Seat also seemed slightly more comfortable. Note that if you carry a pillion, they will have legs higher than on the dl650 in order to clear the exhaust.
...I just did not like that hydraulic clutch and slipper clutch on the twisty greek roads, but probably not a problem in Ontario (was constantly hitting the brakes on the twisties due to limited engine braking and the clutch was difficult to feather...
Yes, that's true.
I traded my 2012 Glee for 2014 Vee2 and took quite a time to get used to hydraulic clutch. All my previous bikes had cable clutch. I did a little tweak on it by shorting push rod to make the lever bite a bit closer to the grip, but still, it requires some training and miles (more then I expected). I'm very confident with it now (10.000 km's on my bike) but few days ago I almost went down while manouvering as the clutch didn't bite at expected moment. Well, it looks like it doesn't have exact spot where it bites, it's like it's never at the same spot.
Haven't found a bike yet without so called issues. But I love to make a great bike just right for me and that is part of resolving issues.
You can't find a bike already perfect. All my Enduros have needed suspension work and I'm a cookie cutter for racing weight. Ktm ready to race an example for sure.
This bike is not perfect by far..it's a slouch for power, has horrendous wind buffeting issues- just read that thread man your gonna hate this bike for that one alone.. And the ground clearance, tyres, chunder clack boom! Man watch out the dramas are still unfolding..
Personal opinion though it is one of the best allrounders I've ever ridden and owned, and is unfolding as I set it up to be by far the best I've owned. Just beating my 650 versus by a wee bit so far and that was no off-roader at all.. thats in a 30 year road dirt obsessed period
It's runs with the sports bikes round the track with honours let alone on a twisty tar bumpy country road... its also a great Adventure bike off-road with careful line selection, is economical, good looking, comfortable for 1000km+ days, has great tyres standard, excellent suspension, excellent headlight, a power port on the dash able to run electronics x2 on the tiny fuse, and most of all makes me want to carve a path through the naysayers.
This bike is an outstanding machine and a cut above its predecessor that is still great. But no bike is perfect or without something to sort out.
Just get out and ride one mate if it doesn't apeal then don't buy it. By the way I run a standard screen and think it works well.
I had the tank off to route some electrical spaghetti and there is certainly a need to place a piece of grey tape over the above mentioned chaffed wires for piece of mind.
-Paint chip on carrier (on early models, Suzuki warranty)
old# 46311-31J00-YYF
new# 46311-31J01
-Bad ECU - stalling (in Europe on warranty, no recall)
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=mjh8r3vrmo4ujeiktb2jtl3kg5&topic=27820.0
ww.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014/271321-down-shift-stall-6.html
old# 32920-31J10
new# 32920-31J11
-non waterproof connectors above the radiator - bike won't start or headlight on with ignition off
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=27965.0
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=26302.0
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=27965.0
-chafed wiring harness under rear of tank
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=25523.0
-battery ground wire corrosion - bike won't start
ww.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=26555.0
-no ABS switch off: Not in English but understandable: ww.youtube.com/watch?v=qGlIuideeYg
-no designated heat grip connector
-some reports of early idle knocking
-some reports of fuel gauge display fault (full tank won't show last display bar)
Happily it's a short list of which only 2 and a 1/2 have effected me. 1. under tank wire. Checked and could see signs of wear. Simple fix; slapped a 2" square piece of semi stiff rubber to the tank with Goop at that spot. Re-positioned the group a bit lower. 2. Rack finish. Repainted black and added a soft bag carrier to it. 1/2. That damn ground bolt. After pulling off the clutch piston to clean out all the goo around the front sprocket, (something that should be done maybe twice a year depending on...) Tried to re and re the ground bolt. Seems welded on and would not budge with hand tools. Too lazy to get out the impact gun and compressor but will attack in the spring.
And that's it so far.
I have had no issues with my 2015 DL1000 except it stalking two times only when it's been in the low 30's Fahrenheit and I blipped the throttle. It just cuts out. Thank god one time I was in the parking lot of my job, and the second was pulling into a 7-11 parking lot and had enough umph to carry me in. No explanation for it I can think of besides its cold?
It did it again when I left work today but I clutched it and caught it before it stalled. Once it's warmed up it doesn't do it whatsoever. It's only when the engine is still cold. I never had this problem before I installed the K&N air filter and the full exhaust. I do have a small exhaust leak between the header pipe and the mid pipe at the first connection. The clamps the Arrow come with aren't good IMO. I'm going to order a new clamp and see if that makes a difference in this issue and it keeps the bike from stalling.
John which ECU do you have (new/old)? See earlier thread for US part numbers.
How to check: ww.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014/271321-down-shift-stall-4.html
You have to disconnect positive from the battery, remove toolbag strapped with the rubber. Then you have to take out two screws that hold the plastic base of relays, one screw at the front of that base, one on the left side. Then lift up the base slowly and you'll see the ECU. To remove it completely, you have to unplug two connectors from it first. After you're done, you only need to adjust the clock on your dash. All the rest of informations will remain the same on ODO.
After 6000km riding through all kinds of weather, including 700km of dirt/gravel/nasty stuff, in heavy rain, my bike was fine, but during the cleanup with a hose the lights came on with no key in ignition, and I was unable to turn the bike power off. Dealer replaced ignition plus gas cap and seat lock so everything was on one key. I have not had that problem return.
I do have a problem with my ABS light coming on after a few blocks. I thought I had it fixed with a cleanup, but it came back again. This is probably something I did when I swapped out my rear tire before my trip. I'm thinking the rear ABS sensor has some issues, or is out of adjustment somehow.
The paint on rear rack scratched horribly and was replaced under warranty.
No other issues to report, the bike rides great and lots of fun. Amazing at the price.
2000 miles on mine and no issues so far. Only thing I don't like is the throttle being a bit snatchy. Yes, i've taken up the cable slack. That's not it. The problem is it abruptly cuts fuelling when closing the throttle, and with the engine braking, you get a little bunking bronco going on. I wouldn't call it deal killer, and i may get a remap eventually. Other than that, I gotta say I freakin love this bike. More fun than the 650.
Got about 17K klm on my 2014.
Got a bit of the "idle knock"...goes away when I pull in the clutch a bit.
I have had two occasions of stall when colder ambient temp when engine cold...no biggy.
I also have some first to second grind if I don't shift rather deliberately.
I did stick my fingers up in the wire harness and rapped some tape around the offending wire loom.
I plan on removing the tank and doing a better job this winter as I will be checking the air filter and plugs...and MAYBE the valves.
All depend on how brave I feel at the time.
I got the service manual and it does not seem that difficult technically.
Just a bit finicky and labour intensive.
Overall a pretty good tall rounder and excellent back road rum runner.
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