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Speedo DRD going on.

16K views 52 replies 19 participants last post by  Grimmer 
#1 ·
After 9000 kms. and constantly looking at the Garmin to see the right speed (not the easiest thing to read in the sun) I have ordered one from Rick. I get 8 to 9 kph difference at 130 kph. Just bugs me so I'm doin it.:furious:
 
#2 ·
Be sure to take a lot of photos of your install since you will need to splice into some wires in your dash harness. It is a bit different to mount due to the ABS and dual sensors (one on each wheel).

I bought one and returned it not wanting to mess with that part of it. I was hoping someone would come out with a plug in model for our bike but haven't seen one yet.
 
#7 ·
The signal wire is pink with a white stripe. The power/positive wire is either white with a green stripe for ignition on power or brown which is on with the ignition on or in (P)ark. The ground wire is black with a white stripe. All can be found in the three connectors that feed the fairing area from the bike's main frame harness.
 
#9 ·
The device changes both the speedo and odo by the same amount. Since the stock speedo is happier than the stock odo, the odo gets a little below accurate when the speedo is accurate.
 
#11 ·
I think positive power can be picked up from any switched source, and the negative from any negative. Only the signal wire needs to be cut and run through the device. Positaps, if you trust them, would work for the two power wires.
 
#12 ·
That's correct. Any ignition on power source will work and any black/white wire or the battery negative can be used for ground.
 
#13 ·
Looks like mine is on the way. Tried to get to Rick before hand but guess I was not successful. I'll dig into it anyway. I mean, just how hard can it be?
Perhaps a DRD spokesperson has more info on the V2 hookup.
 
#15 ·
If it is only one wire we need to splice, then it sounds like a plug-in connector should be possible once again.
There is one wire, the signal wire, that has to be interrupted. That will mean a cut or a seven wire connector with six connections jumpered and the seventh run through the SpeedoDRD. That is expensive in a small run. In a manual rather than plug and play scenario, that's the one cut. The splices in that situation would be to the two sides of the cut plus the power and ground. It isn't as easy or as cheap as you just made it sound.
 
#17 · (Edited)
See, that's not too hard. Red for power on the DRD goes to brown on the position light. Black for ground goes to black/white on the position light. Then cut the pink/white wire going to the gauge cluster. Blue for signal output goes to the P/W wire going to the gauge cluster. Gray for signal input goes to the remaining P/W wire.

All those wires are available elsewhere though and I'd rather go under the seat than in the fairing.
 
#19 · (Edited)
If you cut the P/W wire under the seat, gray goes the wire end coming out of the ECM and blue goes to the remaining wire end.

Note. There are two P/W wires coming from the ECM. The one from the smaller connector goes to the speedo. The one from the larger connector goes to the TPS.
 
#21 ·
OK. At this point in time I am going to say do not buy this product. It is becoming more of a PIA than it is worth for me.
I examined both connection points and determined that behind the gauges is, for me anyway, easier than under the seat. Mainly because under the seat the mass of wires are bundled very tightly together and cutting back the wrap and pulling them apart was easier at the gauge set.
Pretty straight forward there. Used the little red doubling clip connectors for the "position light". Took me a bit to confirm what that was. The little 'always on' light or what we call running lights.
The male/female connectors they send for the pink/white guage wire are way too big and usless for these small wires. I used a small red squeeze connector there.
Doing the test, all was good to go. So, number 1 I tried the max speed. The readout was 151kph. WTF? I've already had the bike well over 200 kph so I am wondering what we are talking about here. I could not find any explanation about this on the on line sites. So, I'm thinking maybe they mean mph. I have tried switching (no. 4) mph to kph but nothing happens. Done for tonight but will try a few things tomorrow. Of course their help line is gone till Monday so nothing new here.
 
#22 ·
I was working with a bloke from the UK forum today and found there are two P/W wires coming from the ECM. The one from the smaller connector goes to the speedo. The one from the larger connector goes to the TPS. I thought I'd better update the info. If you used the P/W wire going to the fairing, you have the right one as the wrong one doesn't go forward. You may just have a calibration issue. Did you follow the literature for calibration or the video at the 12oclock labs web site?
 
#23 ·
I think I do have it hooked up right at the gauge cluster. There is only one video on the site for re calibrating speedo error but I see on the instructions n0. 7 on the list is for entering kph conversions. MAx speed is also a saving feature and altho I have cleared it and all it still comes up with 150 kph. I may just figure this thing out yet.
 
#24 ·
The kph/mph conversion is for a situation like a speedo that resisters mph you want to read as kph. You do not want use a conversion on a Vee2.
 
#26 ·
Everything is done and done. Took the bike out and tracked the speedo showing 107 kph at the Garmin 100kph. Used the 12Oclock labs online calculator to get the right percent (6.5) and the simple instructions to input. Tested it out and found the speedo running 1kph under at 100kph. Reset the device to 6.4 and it's within a kooter hair so I'm done. In the pic you can see I ran it up thru the windshield mount left inside. That and the Garmin cradle. They are zapp strapped off just inside and I intend to wrap the DRD in some tape just to protect and stuff it back down thru the hole.
The new windshield mount is another matter. Good point is you can see a little better. But where it was on the handlebar was only down a couple of inches. The bad point is it vibrates like Hell. Understandably because it is mounted on the spring and rubber mounted windshield.
And, dummass that I am I completely forgot that a year ago I commented that this style of mounting would vibrate. Then I forgot. Then I bought it. I have just been out on the highway, a smooth highway and it shakes at every little movement. I am in the dirt a lot! And, even tho the Garmin is probably a tough little unit, I won't want to take a chance killing an $800 unit. It was rock solid on the handle bar. So it will be going back there unless anyone can offer a solution. But, I can't see one.
 

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#30 ·
Toadride, I experienced the same windshield vibration (bouncing) you described. I have my Garmin mounted to Rick's GPS mount. Most annoying. I improved the situation considerably by doing the following. Decide the windshield position you like most. This will become semi permanent. Remove screws and move the dash plate forward exposing the spring mount mechanism. Use one zip tie on each side pulling the mount tight against the spring. Reassemble dash. While not perfect, your windshield will vibrate much less now. If you decide in the future that you want to change the windshield position you simply undo this procedure by cutting the zip ties.
 
#27 ·
Good thread as I have one of these devices sitting on my workbench right now. To be honest, I'm just not motivated to go digging in around the wiring to make this work.
 
#36 ·
Hey Toad, if you're heading Down Under, drop by and you can install one for me...

:cool:

In the meantime I bought a $40 Sigma-Sport cycle computer, strapped it to the handlebars next to the throttle assembly and calibrated against the Garmin.

It'll do for the time being. I know that when I'm doing 100 kays that the speedo reads 107, 118 for 110, 66 for 60, etc. (60, 70 and 35 mph respectively for those still using biblical measurements...
 
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