Vee2 Fender Raising Kit - Page 3 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
DL1000A - 2014-2016 DL1000A - 2014-2016 (L4-L6)

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post #21 of 99 Old 12-07-2016, 05:50 PM
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Rats.....I was afraid of that, and my brace is not coming off for a bit more clearance.
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post #22 of 99 Old 12-07-2016, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlandrick View Post
Our Galfer kits are all double front lines.

Sorry, now to let a little enthusiasm out of the subject for the Wee owners. You can not raise the front fender and use any of the currently available fork braces. Existing clearance between the fork brace and fender is about 1/16" to 1/8". So you can have your choice between a fork brace and fender raising kit. I will still make it, but you may want to weigh the advantages of both.

My buddy Ramjet took his brace off a 2012 DL650 to install an expensive aftermarket higher fender. After two weeks he took the expensive fender off, put the stock fender back on, and reinstalled the fork brace because he missed the brace.
That's odd. Unless I missed something I can get >5/8ths, maaaaaybe 3/4" under my fork brace. I am fabbing up brackets now for the two front holes(Neanderthal Metal Works), but I won't know where to drill the new holes until I get my suspension back from Daugherty. I started a thread in the Perf & Mod section....and don't laugh at my "machining" methods

Oh, and I did raise some questions, such as is 3/4" actually beneficial?

And this is the perfect opportunity for someone to build a high-er front fender with and integrated fork brace......mummmmhummm!

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Last edited by Motor7; 12-07-2016 at 06:23 PM.
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post #23 of 99 Old 12-07-2016, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
That's odd. Unless I missed something I can get >5/8ths, maaaaaybe 3/4" under my fork brace. I am fabbing up brackets now for the two front holes(Neanderthal Metal Works), but I won't know where to drill the new holes until I get my suspension back from Daugherty. I started a thread in the Perf & Mod section....and don't laugh at my "machining" methods

Oh, and I did raise some questions, such as is 3/4" actually beneficial?

And this is the perfect opportunity for someone to build a high-er front fender with and integrated fork brace......mummmmhummm!


Good job Rick! Hell a 1/2" is beneficial. Anything is better than the 1/4" that is stock.


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post #24 of 99 Old 12-07-2016, 10:11 PM
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1.23" without changing brake lines. Mitas E10 Knobs tested at triple digits speeds no rub. Going to clean things up and match the fasteners so it will look presentable at Starbucks/Panera next to the Stormtroopers
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post #25 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 01:44 AM
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Looks great. Can you describe the process?
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post #26 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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B-Mac,

Kudos.

Based on the pics I'm guessing the 1.23" is the total clearance, not the move. It is possible to kink a brake line and I was thinking this morning about an option that would allow a larger move up by replacing the crossover line with one 2" longer to get a 1" or higher rise. But that option would add $55 to the cost of an otherwise very economical kit.

It looks like you drilled new holes in the fender for the front top bolt. I'm guessing you made extenders for the back and lower front bolt. I think the DIY types would like pics or even video.

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post #27 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
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Looks great. Can you describe the process?
Sorry it has taken so long to get back. I had to look for some photo's. I slapped this together for March Moto Madness last spring so I could run the E-10 tires and not have any rub at high speeds and keep the mud from clogging. I got some had some aluminum stock 3/4 X 1/8X36 $5.48 (Lowe's) laying around so I cut a few pieces to extend the fender without having redesign and hack up the fender and Brk/lines. I want to go back to stock when I sell. I had to drill two holes in the fwd. fender ears so the original mounting hardware would work. That left the original hole on top open. Once the front was raised and mounted I measured and cut a piece for the rear. The crossover brake line was now positioned rear of the original mount, I simply used a piece of Velcro to attach it to the fender. The main Brk/line is attached to the original mount with a re-usable tie. Everything has held up well all season in Mud/single track/water crossings. I will now remove everything and clean up or redo the mounts nice and neat. I will still most likely get a set of Rick's risers becuse of his workmanship and price point. Good Luck DIY"ers.



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Last edited by B-Mac; 12-08-2016 at 12:58 PM.
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post #28 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 01:32 PM
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Rick,
I plan on getting the Galfer kit along with the fender raising kit. Getting closer to B-Mac's 1.23" raise would be great.

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post #29 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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B-Mac,

What did you do for the back bolt? Is the new mount more bent aluminum flat bar?

This method has been used for years. I haven't heard but one negative comment about it so it probably works well.

I should have pics of my design posted this week end. I'm looking forward to having my solution for the back done. The front and back mounts take different approaches to the same problem. Fun stuff!
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post #30 of 99 Old 12-08-2016, 08:19 PM
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No doubt Rick's solution will be professional and reasonably priced- I'll get one also. Just looking to learn from guys ahead of me on the learning curve. I'm starting to realize that wrenching is fun when riding isn't an option.
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