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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:35 PM
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Default ECU chip ??.

Anybody tried this or know more about it ??.

NITRO X FUEL COMMANDER POWER CHIP FOR: VSTROM,V-STROM,DL 1000,DL1000,

I found it on Ebay,I would post a link but that's not allowed.
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:44 PM
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The GIXXER forums are calling it snake oil.
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:55 PM
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For $49 I thought that myself !!!


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Old 12-07-2012, 11:31 PM
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Interesting though. Since it "plugs" into the IAT sensor connector, thereby bypassing the IAT sensor itsel, I assume it just tricks the ecu (or ecm) into sending different info to the injectors? Since it's an across the board adjustment, you are stuck with a particular setting unless you re set the "chip" every time certain conditions change
Installation info: Nitro X Fuel Commander ,Car & Motorcycle Parts & Accessories by BK racing parts
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneStrom View Post
Anybody tried this or know more about it ??.
NITRO X FUEL COMMANDER POWER CHIP FOR: VSTROM,V-STROM,DL 1000,DL1000
I've used one of those before on a heavily modded fuel injected Yamaha Zuma 155.
The device was a life saver during the engine modding process.
It allowed me to default to a richer map as I made modifications to the bike.
It would occasionally put up a "check engine light" but it was rare and the code would usually clear after the next run.

It is my belief that no bike should need after-market gizmos attached to it to make it run properly due to poor ECU programming or improper engine build, (e.g. bigger exhaust & intake but no FI compensation).
So, Eventually...
After I completed the Yamaha's engine build-up I discovered that replacing the bike's stock 6 hole fuel injectors with a ten hole unit negated the need for the IAT sensor trickery.
I was then able to disconnect the box and run the stock ECU on the heavily modded mill without any issues at all.

One difference that I noticed between the one for Suzuki and the one for Yamaha (that I used), is that mine had 6 NEGATIVE steps then "ZERO" then six POSITIVE steps. I could richen or lean it out.
I could write pages on why my Yamaha and your Suzi need different medicine to get them running right but I'm already too long here.

Here's the bottom line: I would say that if you like to tinker, it is certainly worth the fifty bucks to give it a try.
Besides, hacking up your stock harness is part of the fun.

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Old 12-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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The problem I see is the limited number of steps that would make the steps either too coarse or the range too small but the big thing is the change would be across the entire rpm range. A PC or a Yosh/Teka box can make different changes to different parts of the rpm range.
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Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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Old 12-08-2012, 12:32 PM
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I'm not looking for more power,I just want it to run clean from low RPM's to redline!!.My V is 100% stock and will stay that way but it's almost impossible to ride below 3,000 rpm's ( 2,500-3,000) it bucks and coughs.


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  #8  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:43 PM
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There's the problem. You just want to richen it below 3000rpm, not across the board. If I were in your shoes though, I would just change the gearing and keep it above 3000rpm.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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  #9  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:47 PM
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Agreed!
The gizmo mentioned above is perfect for a new set of pipes and a K&N air filter which would require a richer map across the board.
However, all the DL1000 really needs is about 20% FI increase from off-idle to about 10% throttle.
Ten minutes with a Teka Tuner and all ridability problems disappear.

It's unfortunate that the 10 minute fix carries a $700.00 price tag.
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  #10  
Old 12-08-2012, 01:34 PM
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I'm on my 4th set of sprockets.I have had,1 down front,2up rear,1down front with 2up rear and now I'm back to 2up rear.When my bikes cold ( 0-1 bar ) it runs GREAT at ALL rpm's,at 2 bars it runs bad under 3,000 rpm's.It doesn't really run great over 3,000 but it is alot better than under 3,000.


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