K3 Vee Stator magnets - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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K3 Vee Stator magnets

Hi all - a question for you gurus out there. To bring you up to speed - I had a total charging system failure last week. Troubleshooting and disassembly revealed several things… a burnt stator (all 3 phases shorted to ground), the r/r fails all diode checks and the magnets are misaligned in the stator rotor. All but one of the magnets came unglued – all were touching each other leaving a huge gap in the magnetic field.
The magnets are in perfect condition - so I'm contemplating cleaning up the magnets (maybe using a Dremel tool with a brush to remove the old adhesive from the magnets) and using JB Weld to reseat them... Does anyone have any horror stories or warnings with this approach? I’m ordering an OEM stator and a Shindegen Mosfet R/R – that seems to be the best approach from my readings here. Any and all advice on the magnets is very welcome!
I’m guessing the magnets’ being misaligned was the first domino to fall?
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post #2 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 01:16 PM
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All of the magnets failing makes me wonder about the magnets on my '03.

I have sold it and it seemed to working fine at the time, but it still makes me wonder....

I didn't notice any problems.

Some argue against JB Weld-- I don't know what the current logic is.

Personally, my troubles went away after I replaced the second OEM stator with a rewound one that I sent off to a shop. It was rewound and epoxy coated . . .
I posted about it in previous thread(s) somewhere.

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post #3 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 01:21 PM
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Slow setting JB-Weld, not the 5 minute stuff, has been shown to be a good fix. Iron content worries are not a problem. Be careful with the magnets though as they are very fragile and not available separately. They also need to be replaced in the same orientation as they came out. Proper polarity is vital.

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post #4 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 02:06 PM
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I think we need to start learning more about the magnets in the Vee rotor. I have a feeling we are going to see more and more cases of them coming loose. Not long ago Greywolf told me he had only seen a case or two of them coming loose when I had trouble with mine. Age, vibrations, who knows what is the actual cause.

But, I think the rotor is repairable which saves north of $250.

Carefully mark the magnets by number and left/right ( to keep polarity like intended ). These things are incredibly fragile so don't drop them and be very careful trying to pry them out. Even with no adhesive the are held tightly to the rotor with a high magnetic force. The rotors I am familiar with have 6 holes in the outer diameter about the middle of the surface. These holes are to be between the magnets. They are a nice location tool for placing magnets and to judge if yours have moved. Later rotors may not have these holes so just keep equal distance. Once the magnets are out clean out all traces of the old adhesive. I would like to see the surface scuffed a bit with 400 grit sandpaper, be careful to not get sanding grit into the engine. Clean the surface with alcohol. Sand/clean the magnets the same way. JB Weld has already proven to be useful for doing this. You want a very slow set up time to allow for positioning and flow of the epoxy. You have at least 10-15 minutes before any sign of hardening with standard JB Weld. It takes overnight to completely harden so walk away and leave it alone once done! You don't want much epoxy UNDER the magnet as there is little clearance to the stator. Just a film. Once the magnet is in place you want to put pressure on it to squeeze out the epoxy as best you can. Once all the magnets are in place then go back and put more epoxy in the space between the magnets. Just enough to build a wedge at each edge and some on the rotor surface to tie the two "wedges" together. I have been involved with two of these now and so far it works fine.

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post #5 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 02:29 PM
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epoxy is the usually the choice for mounting magnets in most devices

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post #6 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info and pointers!

I love this forum… tons of knowledge for the newbie like me! My rotor does have holes (assume they’re for oil drainage) – making magnet alignment / spacing easy enough… As for polarity – I fully understand the importance of observing the magnet’s polarity… but thanks for the reminder! I can’t get too many of those these days – the wife can attest...

I wonder how much vibration could be attributed to the magnet placement - being out of ballance as it was. I can't wait to get it running and see...

Thanks again… and God bless!
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post #7 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoMo View Post
.I wonder how much vibration could be attributed to the magnet placement - being out of ballance as it was. I can't wait to get it running and see...
I was doing quite a bit of testing on my Vee with the clutch stuff when my charging system failed. You could say I was paying attention to vibrations. Once the new rotor was installed I thought the engine was smoother, especially in the 4000 rpm and up range. But it was not a huge difference. You would have to be used to the bike to tell the difference.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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post #8 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 05:02 PM
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As always, the oil needs to be completely removed from the surface for the epoxy to stick.

A simple compass will show the polarity of the magnets. They need to alternate North, South, N, S, etc.

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post #9 of 42 Old 11-18-2012, 09:29 AM
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The magnet issue is a "real" issue. Every 1k opened up at the local dealership, with over 20k miles on them, has had loose, and or, loose and broken, magnets. I have owned two of these said bikes. Still love the bike, but, I would think that there should be a recall, or at least, updated fix, for this issue. We have also had to replace cam chains in 4 1k's, at around 40k miles.........again..............two of them have been mine.

This is making my bmw's final drive issues a wash
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post #10 of 42 Old 11-18-2012, 06:30 PM
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Can you swap cam chains from the valve cover or is it a tear down?
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