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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #21  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:01 PM
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DoMo, we appreciate your input here, we can all learn from stuff like this. I have been thinking of making a jig for the rotor to space the magnets and maybe putting a bit of pressure on them while the epoxy is curing.

One thing that needs to be said again: Running without a voltmeter is asking for a roadside breakdown! Especially as these bikes get more age and miles on them. I rode my Vee 27 miles home on only the battery by disconnecting both headlights after the voltmeter told me it had quit charging.....
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Last edited by realshelby; 11-28-2012 at 05:56 PM. Reason: sp
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  #22  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:25 PM
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I've had some experience with composite materials (built a 2 seat aircraft out of fiberglass). Someone mentioned that epoxy was the way to glue down the magnets. No good. Epoxy can't handle the heat and some formulations can't handle petroleum products.
If I were doing it I'd use only slow curing JB Weld. The other forms aren't as strong and adhesion might not be as good. I'd also make a small fillet at the edge of the magnet out of JB Weld. Even if you lost adhesion, the magnet would still be held in place by magnetic attraction and the edge of the JB Weld. The only other factor would be to really clean the magnet and surface well. Like someone wrote use alcohol and fine grit paper. Might even use a little acetone after the alcohol.
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  #23  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:44 PM
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JB-Weld is epoxy. Not just any epoxy will do though. Original formula JB-Weld is probably the best for the job.
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  #24  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
DoMo, we appreciate your input here, we can all learn from stuff like this. I have been thinking of making a jig for the rotor to space the magnets and maybe putting a bit of pressure on them while the epoxy is curing.

One thing that needs to be said again: Running without a voltmeter is asking for a roadside breakdown! Especially as these bikes get more age and miles on them. I rode my Vee 27 miles home on only the battery by disconnection both headlights after the voltmeter told me it had quit charging.....
I made 2 days with a failing stator,only to have it finally fry 50 miles from anywhere!!.


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  #25  
Old 11-28-2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
DoMo, we appreciate your input here, we can all learn from stuff like this. I have been thinking of making a jig for the rotor to space the magnets and maybe putting a bit of pressure on them while the epoxy is curing.

One thing that needs to be said again: Running without a voltmeter is asking for a roadside breakdown! Especially as these bikes get more age and miles on them. I rode my Vee 27 miles home on only the battery by disconnection both headlights after the voltmeter told me it had quit charging.....
Glad to share - I know I get a lot more out of this forum than I contribute... Great idea on a jig - it would have come in handy!

Couldn't agree more on the voltmeter... would have saved me some time and treasure. I'll be installing one before straying too far from the nest! It's at the top of my farkle list... just trying to decice between a digital display or the signal dynamics LED I saw in another thread... My concern with the LED is night riding - but I see where it dims 50% after 8 seconds with no change in voltage... If only it were NVIS/NVG compatible for when I'm riding under goggles - with my headlights off!
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  #26  
Old 11-28-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoMo View Post
Glad to share - I know I get a lot more out of this forum than I contribute... Great idea on a jig - it would have come in handy!

Couldn't agree more on the voltmeter... would have saved me some time and treasure. I'll be installing one before straying too far from the nest! It's at the top of my farkle list... just trying to decice between a digital display or the signal dynamics LED I saw in another thread... My concern with the LED is night riding - but I see where it dims 50% after 8 seconds with no change in voltage... If only it were NVIS/NVG compatible for when I'm riding under goggles - with my headlights off!
These are $8 over on ebay,water proof!!.free shipping.


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  #27  
Old 11-28-2012, 05:59 PM
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I bought my Vee with a bad stator (Thanks.....PO) , and when I opened her up , found 1 magnet loose. Thoroughly cleaned the rotor , sanded the original adhesive off with sand paper , and used JB Weld (per this site) and let it set up a couple days. That was close to 4000 miles ago.........
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  #28  
Old 11-29-2012, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
I don't know about the oscilloscope, but I would like to see what the voltages from each of the three legs of the stator are showing when checked with magnets out of place and later with them fixed or replaced. We could get a voltage check at various rpms before/after also. The original stator would have to be used to verify results.

It looks to me like there should be some sign that the magnets are not in the correct position. The vibration difference is negligible, but if we could prove an A/C voltage change it would be helpfull.

Good point. My AC voltages were identical on all three pairs last time I checked, which was at about 76,000.

Much simpler to check that than scaring up an o-scope.
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  #29  
Old 11-29-2012, 10:08 AM
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I don't see how magnet position would affect a difference between different legs of the stator. Each leg would be subject to the same rotating field over the time of the test. An AC test will only show anomalies in the stator, not the rotor. Anything wrong with the rotor will have the identical effect on each leg of the stator.
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Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014+ DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s
See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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  #30  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I don't see how magnet position would affect a difference between different legs of the stator. Each leg would be subject to the same rotating field over the time of the test. An AC test will only show anomalies in the stator, not the rotor. Anything wrong with the rotor will have the identical effect on each leg of the stator.
That is true I would think. What I am looking for is say an average reading of 76 A/C volts with out of place magnets vs say 79 A/C volts with properly placed magnets? Don't anyone use these numbers to check, I am just using them as an example.

When checking for a bad stator finding any of the three legs different is a bad sign. But if all are similar but on the low side it might warrant an inspection of the magnets. We'll need more input to say that however.
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WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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