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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:22 PM
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I have a DL 1000 K6 that has been a stunning ride and trouble free until Saturday when I had to be recovered. The Battery died and I was told it was the r/r. I've charged the battery and tested it out all ok but no charge is going in to the battery. A new r/r is 180.00 but how can I be sure that's the problem before I buy one. How do I check the power going into the r/r???
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  #2  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:28 PM
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The R/R is rarely the problem. It's usually the stator and loose magnets on the rotor are becoming a problem as bikes age. There are three output wires from the stator to the R/R. Check the AC voltage on them. The voltage @5000rpm should exceed 75VAC on any two of the three wires.
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2012, 05:45 PM
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Just to note; When you go to purchase whatever new parts you need- Go STOCK!! I got cheap on my last bike and replaces the stator and R/R with aftermarket parts and the troubles were not worth the savings. I honestly believe too, that the OEM parts perform better than others (At least the Cheaper ones that claim better output). Biggest difference, is the Stock oem parts will install just like what comes out instead of you having to rigg or retrofit stuff.. Just my two cents- and a little ranting..
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:38 PM
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i have not read a single case where the mosfet r/r has failed. plenty on the aftermarket stators. so, in the unlikely event that you have to change your r/r, go with the mosfet.

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:57 PM
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Open the left side look for moving magnets on the rotor

Look at stator winding for brown/burnt parts.

Moving magnets usually give some juice just not enough to keep the battery charged.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teevee View Post
i have not read a single case where the mosfet r/r has failed. plenty on the aftermarket stators. so, in the unlikely event that you have to change your r/r, go with the mosfet.

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm

Roger that on the Mosfet. I changed mine when my OEM stator went tits up. 14V @ idle with all the $hit lit. 14.5V @ anything above idle.
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2012, 11:48 AM
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Have not tried the Mosfet but good to know for future reference. I tried Electrosport or something like that on an old bike- nut Suzu and it was a PIA and didn't put out the Voltage as stated.. Told myself after that no more aftermarkets just OEM from there on.. You Mosfet braggers may have twisted my arm..
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:54 PM
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My broken record is that it is a balanced system and a "GOOD" battery is part of it along with high oil levels for cooling
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:28 PM
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Thanks for all the help I've now checked the stator and although the ohm readings are good, one phase is only producing 6 volts at 5000rpm while the other two are good at 75 volts,I ordered a new stator and gasket today 250.00 ouch, I've read a lot of forums and they mention the magnets coming loose, but I don't want to open anything up until I get the new stator are I don't have much room to work, but I'll keep you posted
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2012, 01:44 PM
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That's an expensive PIA but at least you found the source of the problem. Now you can fix 'er up and get back on the slab w/out worries
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