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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 11-01-2012, 01:36 PM
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Default HD battery upgrade?

So I am looking at adding HAM equipment to the Vee, and its nearing battery time. I am wanting something with more umph behind it than stock for many reasons, biggest being just the overall AH rating on the battery so I can run the equipment while the bike if off if need be. That said, here is what I am looking at and curious what y'all have seen used.

Balistic Evo2 16Cell
Dimm 122mmX 86mm x 148mm
weight 3.6 lb
PBeq AH 28 (9.2 AH? not sure how this overall compares with a lead acid)
Pulse cranking amps 500 CCA

Stock 14BS type battery
Dimm 150mm x 87mm x 145mm
weight 10.5 lbs
AH 12
CCA 200-240

Looks like 3 mm taller, big whoop. Other than price, any one know any issues with the upgrade?

I am wanting to move this way because I will be running HAM and various other things (IE USB chargers overnight) while the bike is off for extended amount of time. In the event that I do run dead, I can still push start, while a pita, and not worry about damage to the battery long term.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:00 PM
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I am unclear of the amp hour which I always believed was the power that the battery stored. MOre equals more.

I would not undertake this without a volt meter on the bike

This might charge at a rate greater than our weenie electrics can produce... what then ?*

Last at least upgrade to a Shindegen (SP) mosfet R/R

* Bike shitassed electric generation is from a time before fuel injection, pumps, ecu's etc so there is little to spare. My Gerbing jacket 6 amps and 1 50 watt tail light and that is it for idle or she's draining the battery. I think I am going to get a single hid to save 3 amps in the front.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw View Post
Last at least upgrade to a Shindegen (SP) mosfet R/R
Noted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by richw View Post
My Gerbing jacket 6 amps and 1 50 watt tail light and that is it for idle or she's draining the battery. I think I am going to get a single hid to save 3 amps in the front.
I am in the process of making an over complicated LED taillight replacement that is worth a darn. The current market replacement's are sub-par for my likes in city driving. Goal is max draw is <=10 watts brake (including aux rear brake, already modded my givi top case).
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizzo3 View Post
I am wanting to move this way because I will be running HAM and various other things (IE USB chargers overnight) while the bike is off for extended amount of time. In the event that I do run dead, I can still push start, while a pita, and not worry about damage to the battery long term.
hizzo3, unless you are running a QRP rig I think you will be disappointed in how long you will be able to run a HAM rig while parked. A USB charger couldn't draw much but some HAM rigs would eat one of those small batteries quickly if you were transmitting some.

As far as the push start goes.....go try that with a fully charged battery! If you have a hill to get some speed it will work ok. If you are in a place like Houston it is most difficult. Remember, you will have to have enough power to power up the ECM and the fuel pump so if the battery is completely dead you are stuck.

I would recommend looking into an auxilliary battery. It could still be charged by the bike while underway. You could simply unhook it from the bike and hook those leads to your equipment when parked.

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Old 11-01-2012, 06:47 PM
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Sounds like you need to come up with a big rig alternator mounted to a belt and pulley that runs off the rear tire and then feeds juice up the a R/R and on to a set of marine Gel batteries stacked up in your custom made extra large panniers n
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
This might charge at a rate greater than our weenie electrics can produce... what then ?*
It can not charge faster than the alternator can put out less whatever power is being presently consumed. The alternator puts out what it'll put out. Some of that goes to the consumers...lights, electric engine functions, electric farkles...then the battery takes the rest up to the set point of the voltage regulator. Our voltage regulators then convert the excess (if any) to heat--note the cooling fins on the regulator assembly. A MOSFET regulator does not get more power from the alternator at speed; it regulates better and does get a bit more power at low rpms.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:14 PM
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Default Maybe

I believe the RV folks use a second battery with an isolator connection, which allows the second battery to charge along with the primary, but allows the second battery to discharge independently. So perhaps a second battery would be a better bet. Far as that goes, lead-acid is far from the most space/weight efficient when it comes to charge capacity. I'd probably go for NiMH or Li ion as a secondary battery. As suggested above, try push-starting the beast (especially when cold) and perhaps you'll be convinced that running the battery dead is not a trivial matter.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:52 PM
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In 2005 or 2006, I was running APRS with a 50 watt radio. A beacon every 2 minutes plus heated gear would do the battery in after 3 hours. I've since moved to a ten watt Byonic TinyTracker and it's no big deal to worry about.

The key, as someone else mentioned is to put a voltmeter on the bike. If the voltage drops below 12.6 - 12.8, you're discharging the battery.

In setting up my 2012 DL650, I'm planning on a small auxiliary battery with solar panels mounted on the luggage to charge it. This will be used for phones, cameras, and the like.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:50 PM
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Look up RealShebleys thread
Worlds most powerful vstrom
He came up with a external alt !!.Pretty cool stuff!!!.


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