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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 11-05-2010, 05:14 PM
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Default Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder removal

I want replace my 17 tooth w/ a 16 tooth sprocket. The hydraulic clutch needs to be removed to remove the cover. When removing the hydraulic clutch, does it come out easily or do parts fall out.
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2010, 06:40 PM
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Don't hurry the job when you put it all back together. I put the aluminum bolt guide on the push rod by mistake and the first time I engaged the clutch, I spilled about 2 quarts of oil on the ground when I sent the engine seal into the engine! It's ok I was only 1000 miles from home......
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:08 PM
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austin03 - instead of dropping a tooth up front, I went +4 on the rear sprocket (45t). I personally did not want to have the chain wrapping around a smaller radius up front.

But to answer your question, nothing explodes when you remove the slave cylinder and sprocket cover. Follow these steps, and be prepared to clean A LOT of accumulated gunk from the sprocket area:

- Squeeze the clutch lever in and lash it down with a bungee or strap
- Remove the 2 Allen bolts from the slave cylinder and pull straight out
- Remove the pushrod (remember to clean it before reinstalling)
- Remove the speed sensor from the sprocket cover
- Remove the 3 bolts from the sprocket cover (1 up top and 2 below)
- At this point a 1.75" or so spacer may drop out; save it for reinstalling - THIS GOES UNDER THE FORWARD SLAVE CYLINDER BOSS and the Allen bolt fits through it

Clean, clean, clean the area. All sorts of filth accumulates here. Kerosene is a good cleaner.

When reassembling, the cover and speed sensor are a no-brainer. When putting the slave cylinder back on, lube the push rod with a suitable grease and insert. Then run both bolts through the cylinder mounting holes and place the spacer over the foward bolt. Then you'll need to wiggle the slave cylinder into position. When tightening the bolts, snug each one a little at a time (don't honk one down then the other). Torque to comfort (I like "Guten Tite") and release device holding down the clutch lever. Cycle it a couple of times and give a test run to make sure. If you feel any binding or the clutch is not disengaging, you might have to repeat slave cylinder installation.

Here's more info, from another VStrom forum:

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,1886.0.html
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  #4  
Old 11-06-2010, 08:41 AM
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A few folks have managed to derange their clutches when re-assembling with the clutch lever bound to the grip. In that configuration the slave cylinder can not retract, if you've somehow managed to tighten up the clearances or misalign the pushrod. My personal preference on reassembly is to snug up the slave cylinder bolts by hand (minimal torque), then release the lever and torque the bolts to spec. Perhaps unnecessary. But more tolerant of errors and problems.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:23 AM
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Default Tightening

And be sure that the stud at the bottom of the clutch assembly is fitting properly into the hollow stud protruding from the engine at the bottom. Because everything flops around so much before the parts start snugging up to each other, it's possible to start tightening the bolts with the solid clutch assembly stud slightly misaligned, which can crush the rather thin front section of the hollow engine stud.

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Last edited by Fellow Traveller; 11-24-2010 at 08:59 PM. Reason: typo
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donstrom6 View Post
austin03 - instead of dropping a tooth up front, I went +4 on the rear sprocket (45t). I personally did not want to have the chain wrapping around a smaller radius up front.

But to answer your question, nothing explodes when you remove the slave cylinder and sprocket cover. Follow these steps, and be prepared to clean A LOT of accumulated gunk from the sprocket area:

- Squeeze the clutch lever in and lash it down with a bungee or strap
- Remove the 2 Allen bolts from the slave cylinder and pull straight out
- Remove the pushrod (remember to clean it before reinstalling)
- Remove the speed sensor from the sprocket cover
- Remove the 3 bolts from the sprocket cover (1 up top and 2 below)
- At this point a 1.75" or so spacer may drop out; save it for reinstalling - THIS GOES UNDER THE FORWARD SLAVE CYLINDER BOSS and the Allen bolt fits through it

Clean, clean, clean the area. All sorts of filth accumulates here. Kerosene is a good cleaner.

When reassembling, the cover and speed sensor are a no-brainer. When putting the slave cylinder back on, lube the push rod with a suitable grease and insert. Then run both bolts through the cylinder mounting holes and place the spacer over the foward bolt. Then you'll need to wiggle the slave cylinder into position. When tightening the bolts, snug each one a little at a time (don't honk one down then the other). Torque to comfort (I like "Guten Tite") and release device holding down the clutch lever. Cycle it a couple of times and give a test run to make sure. If you feel any binding or the clutch is not disengaging, you might have to repeat slave cylinder installation.

Here's more info, from another VStrom forum:

Clean Out front sprocket area!


If I went with a 45t rear sprocket, I would have needed to purchase another chain. When I installed the 43t, w/ the stock 17 in the front and the rear chain adjusters all the way into the swing arm, the drive chain was too tight. A 45t wouldn't have allowed me to use my current chain at all. Appreciate the tip though!
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:45 PM
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+1 be sure to remove the clutch lever restraint prior to tightening down the bolts.

Leep all organized due to diff lengths/locations of bolts & spacers.
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2010, 01:58 AM
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Hey Austin...I was replacing my chain when I went to 45T on the rear sprocket, so I just measured 10 times and cut the right length (124 links I believe).

I didn't realize you were just re-gearing w/ stock chain.

How'd you make out? Any change in the smile-o-meter?

If you want to correct for speedometer error after re-gear, I recommend the SpeedoDRD. 12oclock Labs
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2010, 01:18 PM
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It definitely zips along a lot better now. I will be purchasing a speedodld. I calculated an error margin of 15.3%.
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2011, 06:29 PM
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Default removing front sprocket 2002 DL1000

Looking to find out the steps to remove and replace front sprocket on my 2002 DL1000...changing the stock 17 with a 16 tooth........I looked here in this forum, and found information....but not sure about the allen bolt in the center of the sprocket shaft.....right or left thread ?....then remove the slotted nut to get to the sprocket nut?....or do we not take the allen out ?....The sprocket nut 1-1/4"...right or left to loosen?.....It seems some of the information for a dramma free maint. procedure is missing...Thanks in advance for any replys, Charlie..............
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