Clutch Basket Mod Part II - Page 28 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #271  
Old 11-25-2012, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by off1 View Post
What about those being .050+ producing a bit of vibration art higher RPM's?



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I have never heard the thickness being attributed to a vibration. In the shim mod baskets done by owners there have been cases where owners posted about vibrations outside of the "chudder zone". While it was speculated the shims might be the cause, it is much more likely that it was there all along and can now be felt or noticed with the other bad vibrations dampened somewhat. Vibrations from the bearing being too loose and the inner plate being way out of position from wear are more likely candidates. I run machined shims in the WERKS baskets and they don't have these vibrations......
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WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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  #272  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:00 PM
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Okeedokee. I just mentioned that because of this post so I needed to make sure.


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Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
........6 shims ( .050 thickness ): this combination allowed almost no chudder to be felt in the lower rpms. But it was not quite as smooth in the upper rpms as the no shim and 3 shim baskets. Like the trick spring package it just allowed a bit more of the engine vibrations to be felt thru the basket than the other combinations.

6 shims ( .043 thickness ): this is what I am running now and what is in most of the baskets testing the new design at this time. In my opinion it is the best compromise. Most riders would never notice chudder with this combination and the upper rpms are very smooth, not much different from the no shims combination.

I ran each of these combinations at least 3 times ( except for the .050 shims ). I remember one time coming in after a test loop ( about 20 miles ) and immediately taking the basket out, tearing it down, putting it back together with a different combination, and reinstalling it in just over an hour!........






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[CENTER][URL="http://www.ofirmx.com/blog/2013-04-10/motorcycle-cornering-survival-reactions-and-proper-body-positioning/21"]Motorcycle cornering: Survival reactions and proper body positioning[/URL]
[B]Frankenbike Build Project:[/B] [URL="http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227105"]The thread[/URL] - [URL="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArrIvyH9_DzYdGk1NkhhT3phVU9JMFBDWDZUYWxqUkE&usp=sharing"]The needed parts list[/URL] - [URL="https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/108936872614705454475/albums/5939676311088087393?sort=1"]The progress pictures[/URL]

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
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  #273  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:25 PM
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Ok, I see what you are looking at. I thought you were talking about the "shim mod". I was thinking about the 4500-5000 rpm vibration we were working on way back. That was a noticeable vibration and what some attributed to running any shim. In fact I learned later the other worn parts were the biggest factor.

When I wrote the article you quoted I should have used "engine power pulses" as it was a better description of those forces being transmitted than what most would call a vibration. The tests were done with a load, not so much at cruise. Still, vibration is a legitimate description as the thicker shims didn't allow as much damping of the vibrations from the engine.

That said, those tests should not be confused with doing a shim mod like I assume you are attempting? Those tests were done on a fully modified basket. The tolerances are MUCH different in the spring pockets on those and the shim dimensions are not to be compared!
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WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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  #274  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
I have never heard the thickness being attributed to a vibration. In the shim mod baskets done by owners there have been cases where owners posted about vibrations outside of the "chudder zone". While it was speculated the shims might be the cause, it is much more likely that it was there all along and can now be felt or noticed with the other bad vibrations dampened somewhat. Vibrations from the bearing being too loose and the inner plate being way out of position from wear are more likely candidates. I run machined shims in the WERKS baskets and they don't have these vibrations......
I agree w you - too much play in the basket damper will aggravate chatter and anything less than "zero play" will decrease low frequency chatter.

Any high frequency vibration would not be shim related (to keep out the internet witchcraft).

I can read between the lines and see that different people are talking about different "vibrations".

.............................

edit: You posted the explanation before I posted this.

Sigh... "semantics"!

Last edited by marc99; 11-25-2012 at 01:29 PM.
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  #275  
Old 11-25-2012, 02:05 PM
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Ok, so for the shim mod the .055's should do then. Thanks for the clarification.

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[CENTER][URL="http://www.ofirmx.com/blog/2013-04-10/motorcycle-cornering-survival-reactions-and-proper-body-positioning/21"]Motorcycle cornering: Survival reactions and proper body positioning[/URL]
[B]Frankenbike Build Project:[/B] [URL="http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227105"]The thread[/URL] - [URL="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArrIvyH9_DzYdGk1NkhhT3phVU9JMFBDWDZUYWxqUkE&usp=sharing"]The needed parts list[/URL] - [URL="https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/108936872614705454475/albums/5939676311088087393?sort=1"]The progress pictures[/URL]

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
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  #276  
Old 04-02-2013, 11:17 PM
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So:


Installed a Werks basket over the weekend. The bike ('06 Vee) has over 120 000 kms on it and was experiencing increased levels of chudder in the last year or so. This is the first time I've ever dug into a clutch before and I thought it would be a lot more complex than it was.

However, for anyone with really basic mechanical skills (can use ratchet and a can of brake cleaner), this is entirely a DIY job.


The only issue I ran into was I broke a pressure plate bolt when torquing it back down. These bolts don't require a lot of torque - only 7 foot pounds - and one of the bolts failed below even that. At first I thought the aluminum threads had failed and was thinking a helicoil was in order, but the bolt head snapped off when backing it out - a much simpler problem. Pulled the clutch back apart, and used a drill press to drill a small pilot hole and used and extractor screw to remove the broken bolt. I could not source a replacement bolt (M6, 40mm, hex-head, full-length threads) on short notice so went with a 35mm replacement. I don't see why that won't work fine. That's lots of thread for a low-torque bolt.


I also rebuilt the water pump while I was in there. Though it wasn't leaking at all, it seemed the right time. It's all exposed when you open the case, so why not? Turns out it was showing signs of extreme wear and was ready to fail, so I was glad I had all the parts on hand. I wouldn't want to pull the case apart and drain both oil and coolant just for that.


Clutch plates all looked good and, even though I bought a replacement nut and washer, they were fine to use over. All you really need for the basket replacement is the gasket.


End result of new Werks basket:


Huge improvement and totally worth the cost. Those low RPM pulls that used to make me clench my teeth to keep them from rattling are history. I have one particular left turn from stop that requires a quick shift from first to second before the bike is laid over too far to get my toe under the shifter without hitting the ground. Out of habit (this is an old, tired bike that goes through this same corner 5 days a week all year long), I braced myself for the all-familiar chudder, only to find a smooth pull through second gear from 1500 rpm upwards.


When I hit the highway and 110 kms/hr, I shifted into 6th - something I haven't done for a long time - and found O/D super smooth. I had a big smile all the way through my one-hour commute to work. I'd like to say it's just like new, but it's better than it was even new.


This impression is after ONE DAY of riding. I am so impressed and can't wait to go to work tomorrow. That is worth the upgrade in itself.

A bit of background - this bike has chuddered since new, but got seriously worse in the past year, to the point I was actually considering buying a 650 (the Strom so fits my needs). It's been a commuter its entire life and has also done a lot of off-pavement duty. It owes me nothing. I figure this mod gives the bike a couple more year's life for what I use it for.


If my next Vee shows the same symptoms, I know what the first farkle will be, after crash bars, of course.


Terry (Real Shelby) is very accomodating and does a fantastic job. He sent out a ready-to-go basket and a clutch wrench so I could do this job in one day, before sending my old basket back to him. I give his product and service a big thumbs up.

If you look back a page or two into this thread, you'll see what he does.
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  #277  
Old 04-03-2013, 11:16 AM
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He IS a stand up guy !!!


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  #278  
Old 04-04-2013, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
I also rebuilt the water pump while I was in there. Though it wasn't leaking at all, it seemed the right time. It's all exposed when you open the case, so why not? Turns out it was showing signs of extreme wear and was ready to fail, so I was glad I had all the parts on hand. I wouldn't want to pull the case apart and drain both oil and coolant just for that.
Where were you and your bright ideas when I did mine? Just kidding of course. My pump seal is now weeping and replacement requires sidecar removal if being a contortionist isn't your pastime.

And as an update, the RealShelby Werks basket is performing great after 10K miles of sidecar duty.

Mtnairmist
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  #279  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:48 AM
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Panic

The type of carbon ceramic seal can cure itself. Keep a jug handy and just monitor it.

I always add some pump lube corrosion product into the expansion tank
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  #280  
Old 04-04-2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Panic

The type of carbon ceramic seal can cure itself. Keep a jug handy and just monitor it.

I always add some pump lube corrosion product into the expansion tank
Panic? or don't panic
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2007 Black Vee. Madstadt, EB Fusebox, H4 Relay, Dual outlet, 17/46 gears w/530 chain, Givi WS, Richland Rick mirror ext., Pelican, 12Oclocklabs speedo healer, Wolfman Ranier, Homemade right foot shifter, Coocase, NEP cruise, Hannigan Dual Sport sidecar w/ Claude Stanley (Freedom Sidecars) custom built V-Strom subframe.


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