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DL1000 - 2002-2012 For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 11-03-2007, 04:43 PM
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Default DL1000 TBS problems

Hello All. Today I tried to do a TBS on my DL1000 K6 using the tried and true yardstick and ATF manometer method. I set the idle to 1200 rpm, shut the bike off, and connected the manometer. When I started it back up, the right side (connected to the rear cylinder) ATF was well on it's way to being sucked into the engine. I killed the motor so that wouldn't happen, and turned the TB adjustment screw to the right. That slowed the right side fluid progress, but not enough. So more adjustment to the right and so on, to where it was more or less stable.

Then a weird thing happened. The idle dropped to about 800 rpm and lower, and the bike stalled. I tried to adjust the idle screw but nothing happened. then I turned the TBS screw to the left a bit and it brought the idle up to 1000 and stayed there. I tried the idle screw again and it would not move the idle in either direction. It idles at 1000 rpm but that's it. I walked from it in total frustration at that point.

So what am I doing wrong and what's the fix?

I appreciate all help,
S-bock
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2007, 05:12 PM
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The TB adjustment screw is very touchy, doesn't take much in either direction to make a big difference. I can't speak of any experience with the "mullet manometer" I'm not a big fan of them. A mercury manometer wouldn't even be close to getting sucked into the intakes. What made you turn it in the particular direction that you did, do you have the manometer lines hooked up in sync "correctly" with the front and rear TB's? If you have the right going to the rear, and it was about to be sucked into the engine, than you would want to turn it counterclockwise "pretty sure". The adjustment is taken off the rear throttle body, so if it is lower than the front, you would want to go clockwise.....and vise versa. Those homemade units get air in them all the time, and it really screws up the accuracy.

Also, you should have the idle at 1300/1400 for the sync. The linkages on some bikes have been getting stuck, which affects both the idle adjustment and TB adjustment.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2007, 10:43 PM
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Thanks, Big B. I think the linkage may have been getting sticky. I'll try again tomorrow. My stock in the Mullet Manometer has plummeted, but it's only thing I have to work with for right now. I'll see how it goes.
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Old 11-04-2007, 02:58 AM
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Don't forget to also check your upper front TB boot that connects to your airbox to see if the clamp is tight enough. Mine was doing all sorts of screwy things during my TBS until someone PMed me to check it and that was the source of all the problems on my bike.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:05 AM
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Thanks, KLRman. I thought of the TB boot problem last night and will check that today. BTW, I dig your Foghorn Leghorn avitar.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klrman View Post
Don't forget to also check your upper front TB boot that connects to your airbox to see if the clamp is tight enough. Mine was doing all sorts of screwy things during my TBS until someone PMed me to check it and that was the source of all the problems on my bike.

Yup. That boot will ruin your life if not attached properly.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:53 AM
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I checked the boots and they seem to be tight. However I discovered my inabilty to adjust the idle from the idle screw is because the end near the TB has popped out! It was hanging in thin air. Does anyone know where and how this connects? Pics would be most helpful. The DL100 service manual is mute on the subject.


Many Thanks,
S-Bock
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Old 11-04-2007, 10:49 AM
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Post-script. Here's a couple of pics of my free-floating idle screw. I assume it goes into the bracket thingie that I'm pointing to in pic 4.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg TBS 002 (Small).jpg (45.9 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg TBS 004 (Small).jpg (41.2 KB, 102 views)
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2007, 11:53 AM
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Default ONe way to find out is....

To turn the thingie when the bikes idling and see if it goes up or down.
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Old 11-04-2007, 12:52 PM
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True, Shep. It would because that bracket's part of the throttle linkage. Now to figure out how to get the bloody cable back to where it's supposed to be.....
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