The simple answer is a Teka Tuner.
The Teka doesn't require much technical wisdom, allows real-time (even while riding) adjustments, and can easily reset the ECU to all-stock settings if you happen to knock the fuel maps too far out of adjustment.

Link is here: Teka SFI, suzuki fuel injection adjuster for the stock ECU

Note that most of these tuners ONLY move the fuel maps around.
The timing, map switch points, sensor inputs, etc... cannot be accessed.
(which is why they are relatively safe to play with by amateurs like me)

A Dynojet Power Commander type device gives you a LOT more to play with than a simple ECU tuner. . .



...but without a Dyno to tune the bike on, it's all rather useless, IMHO.



Also...
I have no idea of what this device is but here is the link below...
It might be some fun to tinker with it you are looking for options.
Quality Automotive ECU Programmer NitroData Chip Tuning Box for Motorbikers M5 / Kawasaki KLV 100 for sale,Buy cheap Automotive ECU Programmer NitroData Chip Tuning Box for Motorbikers M5 / Kawasaki KLV 100 products from JIU ENTERPRISE GROUP CO., LIM

By The Way...
Naousa? Looks like a nice place to be!
Your English is perfect.
-Ej-

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A "Commuter" not an AdvTourer.
Currently Commuting On: 06 Harley XL1200C, 06 DL1000, 07 GS500F, 2 mopeds, and a pair of sneakers.

Ecu mapping is quite complex.

Let none of us lose focus that the mapping is to pass BS emission tests. I am not sure if there ever was an operator oriented map for countries without greens like EU and the USA . They would be gold.

Teka, Yosh put an over lay on the standard map if its x they can add or subtract the time the injectors are on. Some goofballs interrupt the temp sensor fooling the map that the air is denser.

PC5 I believe can make significant different mapping and can be used with continuous adjustments and a close loop feedback buts its very expensive and requires to put O2 sensor in the exhaust.

IMHO

Do the TRE removal , take out the computer controlled throttle plates (secondaries) add exhaust air filter etc. to your liking. Then get a PC5 and have it tuned at a Dyno shop. If that is not possible in Greece there are many MAPS that can be downloaded from the internet and tried.

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8/2/2013

Totally agree.
Actually anything over about 3500 is Nirvana.
All the annoying ridability issues only exist from off-idle to ≈4K.

---------------
The Teka is idiot proof (trust me I know) but does not give anywhere near the flexibility of a Power Commander.
Memos, if you like to tinker & experiment, richw has the right formula for your KLV. There are several threads here discussing downloadable PC maps.
Look around the forum for more info such as: PCIII Maps for DL1000

And most important. . .
Get back to us and let us know where your quest power takes you!
Regards,
-Ej-

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A "Commuter" not an AdvTourer.
Currently Commuting On: 06 Harley XL1200C, 06 DL1000, 07 GS500F, 2 mopeds, and a pair of sneakers.

Thanks everyone. Firs, I'm gonna give it a little more fuel with the yoshibox at a nearby dealer. It is easy to do and undo, in case it does'nt work. Having had the secondaries removed , I'm thinking: By opening the throttle at hard acceleration and giving the engine lots of air suddenly, mabye it would be good to give some more fuel for the sake of mixture balance during acceleration.
That aside, I'll also be saving for a PC5. Seems a very fun way of spending time and money!!
Naousa is , in my opinion, a great little town. It is the perfect place to raise a family. Not much things to do, but it compensates by beauty and calmness.
Thanx again everyone.

If you have ready access to higher octane fuel, and a willingness to do some machine work, could raise the compression half a point or so, and figure out a way to advance the timing a bit, which would perhaps give you a bit more low-end grunt. Need to look out for detonation, though, as the cylinder head design is a bit primitive. Trouble is, without variable valve timing and variable intake tuning, hard to tune a mid-capacity engine (not a 1600CC cruiser, after all) to pull hard right off idle, and still be pulling at 9000 RPM. You can get a somewhat similar effect by gearing the bike down some (smaller front, larger rear sprocket, or both), effectively giving more rear-wheel torque, at the expense of top speed and fuel economy.

Probably cheaper to drop in a tlr or sv motor

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8/2/2013

It's hardly a drop in procedure. 05 SV Mill into 02 Vee

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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = all DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s

My limit is removing the secondaries. If I tried replacing the motor with the SV one, it would end up in flames and the sea...
Not a bad idea though. An engine from a Tuono would be great...
Now that I'm brainsorming, would'nt it be better that the new Strom be a 1200cc in-line , three cylinder , 140hp monster, with similar appereance to the present one, beefed up frame, usd 48mm fork , spoked wheels, and -of course- much better brakes? From a B-King maybe....That would be perfect for me...
Sounds better anyway than the Beeked apparition one....

I had an 05 Gsxr 1K before the Strom

It had more torque, smooth as glass, 50% more powerful, hardly bigger, slightly better gas mileage.

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8/2/2013

Now this is getting interesting.
If you enjoy your Suzuki bikes perhaps a GSX1250FA (or any post 2007 version of the "Bandit") would be a better choice.
The Bandit is the only thing I can think of that would bridge the gap between a DL1000 and the mighty B-King.
Also... Here is a link to one of the many "Beak" threads that are currently running: 2014 DL1000 (Cycle World) ... U like?

BTW: richw, the DL1000 must feel like driving a UPS truck after switching from your 2005 Gsxr 1K.

__________________
A "Commuter" not an AdvTourer.
Currently Commuting On: 06 Harley XL1200C, 06 DL1000, 07 GS500F, 2 mopeds, and a pair of sneakers.