Is there a write up somewhere on how to glue the magnets down? I saw a stator removal and reinstall which was great, but if I go to that trouble, I don't want to get lost on what to do with the magnets.

Oh, and my bike had a cam chain go at 20K which the previous owner rode on for another 500 miles out of necessity (long way from home). He had the motor completely rebuilt after that. I assume that when the motor gets real clacky clacky sounding that is the cam chain tensioner about to click over, right?

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2003 DL1000 K3

• SonicSprings 1.0 front suspension
• BMW R1100RT/P rear shock

“Rebellion to tyranny is obedience to God.”
― Thomas Jefferson

The engine has to come all the way out

I have been having problems with my DL1000 K6 (see regulator/rectifier on the forum) and have the same issue, so the magnet problem still has not been resolved by Suzuki so buying a replacement doesn't fill me with confidence,

After a bunch of alcohol and sanding to remove the oil and old adhesive from the magnets and rotor - I got everything set using good 'ole JB Weld. It was a little tricky because the magnets were trying to draw towards each other during reassembly - until I got the last magnet in place; neutralizing the pull between the 6 magnets to where they'd stay in place while the JB weld hardened. In hindsight - using something to act as a spacer between the magnets would have been handy - and a little less messy. The holes in the rotor made for a perfect reference to space the magnets.

I have a theory on the chain of events that led to my stator failure. As the magnet adhesive failed and the magnets pulled together, they covered 5 of the 6 holes in the stator rotor – drastically reducing the amount of oil getting to the stator for cooling. The lack of oil / cooling caused the insulation on the stator windings to heat up and break down – causing the short. The stator failed near the top – where there would be the least amount of oil…

The Shindengen MOSFET R/R is performing flawlessly - putting out 14.3 VDC at idle – and I can’t believe how much smoother the bike is running – now that the stator rotor is back in balance. I bought the bike used – and it’s evident that the magnets had shifted – at least a few of them -before I purchased it. It almost feels like a new bike!

Thanks again to all the folks who chimed in with advice!

Thanks for the explanation!

How long would you take it took for you to complete this?

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2003 DL1000 K3

• SonicSprings 1.0 front suspension
• BMW R1100RT/P rear shock

“Rebellion to tyranny is obedience to God.”
― Thomas Jefferson

I don't think the holes have much to do with getting oil onto the stator. They might in fact drain oil away. The replacement rotor ( Genuine Suzuki ) does not have the holes in it at all iirc.

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'12 DL 650- '04 DL 650- '03 DL 1000- '04 R 1150 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com

I'd guess 4-5 hours total labor... It took a little over a week for the new stator and R/R to arrive, so I messed with it here and there as time permitted – taking my time. I gave the JB Weld about 48 hours to set - using a small space heater (a couple feet away) since the garage gets a little cold at night...

I let the magnets soak in alcohol for a while, too - after sanding off the old adhesive. I wasn’t sure how porous the magnets are – and wanted to make sure I removed as much oil as possible for the best bond… If you ever have to go through this – as someone mentioned – be very careful with the magnets. They are fragile. I had a couple scary moments when the magnets jumped together… Like the song says… “you gotta keep em separated!”

My theory on excessive heat / lack of oil causing the stator failure is officially debunked… I see what you mean – that the holes are probably there more for drainage than oil access – the whole centripetal force thing... As the rotor spins around the stator, the holes give the oil a place to go… makes sense as I think about it. I’m still scratching my head on the cause… planned obsolescence, perhaps? I’m at 32k miles…

My Vee is charging fine at 81,000 miles, but now I'm wondering...

Would an oscilloscope show, through an uneven waveform, whether the magnets on mine are moving around?

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2002 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom, Dark Metallic Space Blue
1983 Suzuki GS850G, Cosmic Blue
2005 KLR650, Aztec Red - Turd II, the ReTurdening

I don't know about the oscilloscope, but I would like to see what the voltages from each of the three legs of the stator are showing when checked with magnets out of place and later with them fixed or replaced. We could get a voltage check at various rpms before/after also. The original stator would have to be used to verify results.

It looks to me like there should be some sign that the magnets are not in the correct position. The vibration difference is negligible, but if we could prove an A/C voltage change it would be helpfull.

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'12 DL 650- '04 DL 650- '03 DL 1000- '04 R 1150 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com

It may show a dip in the peak depending on the size of the gap in field – depending on how many magnets have shifted. For me, all but one of the magnets had come loose - and all the other magnets had migrated toward the "fixed" magnet - leaving a sizeable gap which may have shown on the scope. A phase shift may have shown something – between the 3 phases… I doubt many here have access to a scope – especially one that could be used for personal use. I might get some looks if I pulled my bike in the hangar and walked up to the tool room asking for a scope… If someone does – please take some readings and post the results as a baseline for those with a scope and possess the knowhow.

I failed to mention this earlier, but there were other symptoms that pointed to my failing charging system – I just didn’t see the signs as a problem being a relatively new Vee owner (May 2012). I’m convinced the bike had a charging problem when I purchased it… The headlights would get brighter from idle to rev – that doesn’t happen now... The O/D light would occasionally flicker as well - or come on in 5th gear vs. 6th gear (at lower RPMs). I thought a sensor was on its last leg or something - but I have yet to see it since I fixed the charging system... Maybe the O/D light is just coincidental… I’m still a rooky here... but learning a lot from this forum!