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DL 1000 [The Vee] For those bikes with two pipes

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  #1  
Old 07-04-2012, 07:34 AM
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Default Well guys, it finally happened

I like traveling at night for several reasons and I was invited to spend the 4th down at Ocean city so I packed yesterday afternoon for the short 150 each way, trip. I set the alarm for 1am and went to bed. Got up, loaded my topcase and started up...I noticed that for the first time, it labored a little starting and thought "thats odd"....but everything ran well and I had ridden back and forth to work yesterday so I had already ridden over 100 miles so I didn't worry. I stopped in Easton, around 60 miles from home for gas and when I hit the botton, the dreaded click, click, click....nada!

For the very first time in 5 years, my V let me down. I tried to push start but with a grand total of 42% lung capacity, I knew I'd only have one shot at it.....it didn't work because I couldn't get it going fast enough.

Time to phone a friend. Now, there aren't many people that you can call at 3am to come a rescue you but I happen to know a girl not too far from where I was and a text confirmed her very willingness to come give me a jump. and to help me start me bike too. She lives around 30 miles away so I killed the 45 minutes watching people at the Wawa.

Long story short, I got home about an hour ago and while my system was charging at 13.2 with the aux (2-55w halogens) lights on along with the regular stuff a week ago when I installed the 55's, it was now barely breaking 12.01 at 3500 rpm. I guess my stator is fried? I'm an engine builder, not an electrical genius so any help offered will be appreciated. I looked on fleabay and saw several options including one "high output" stator for around 130 bucks. Wha'ts my best bet? FWIW my bike has 24K on it now.

Since I just changed the 35's to 55's, is there any chance that I caused the damage by "pulling too many" watts? I honestly don't know for sure.

What should I check before buying parts, and what parts whould I expect to buy?

Thanks guys....I'm glad this happened now instead of 400 miles from home on my trip out to vintage days in a couple of weeks.

jeff
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  #2  
Old 07-04-2012, 08:42 AM
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Jeff, been there already! Probably the stator, but with the handful of magnet issues with the rotor it is probably a good thing to pull the magneto cover and inspect that also. You will have to do that anyway to install a new stator. First test the stator: Unplug the three wire connector going to the Regulator/Rectifier ( R/R ) under the left side cover under the seat. Using an Ohm meter check each wire to ground, if ANY of the wires show even a slight ready ( even under 1 ohm ) the stator is bad. You can also check output using an A/C voltmeter. Check across any two of the three wires, with the engine revving 5,000 rpms you should see at least 78 volts and all three should be putting near equal voltage.

The Electrosport or Ricks Stators don't have a good reputation for lasting. I am ordering one to put in my Vee so I can put it back stock but I will tell whoever buys it that I don't trust it. Provided it works when I install it, some don't.....
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Old 07-04-2012, 08:46 AM
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If you have stock plus 110 watts of accessory lighting yes you killed it.

There is a sh*t load of things to go wrong
Fried Stator
Fried R/R
Moving rotor magnets

Here and VSRI there are MANY threads how to check the electrics

If its a VEE then just pull the case and look for the magnets and brown stator windings.

I don't want to spend your money but if you routinely go FAR from home then almost replacing it all including the battery. IMHO it is a precariously balanced system and cascade failures are probable

I think riding at night, auxillary lighting is BS, If you must do that then there are expensive LED lights that draw like 10 watts each


Shelby what went wrong with your pretty exterior alternator ?
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Last edited by richw; 07-04-2012 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richw View Post

Shelby what went wrong with your pretty exterior alternator ?

Nothing at all! Actually I will miss it. I recently bought a 2012 DL 650 to get ABS.....and better fuel range/mileage. I wanted a new bike anyway and the 1000 is an '03 so I will be selling it. I am taking off the external alternator and will probably sell it separately. I sold the new factory stator I had bought after loaning it to a hapless V owner searching for charging system problems so I don't have it here now to put the V back to stock......

Enough of the highjack, we gotta get Jeff back on the road!
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WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2012, 01:06 PM
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Don't go with electrosport (unless you want to do the job a few times)!

Electrosport and Excel Stators - Buyer Beware!!!
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:24 PM
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If your stator turns out to be bad (likely).
And check those pesky magnets!


Then my recommendation is to have it rewound.

If you go to the advanced search and enter my 'handle' and stator you will find where I mailed mine too and received a well done rewind with an epoxy coating that worked well and is still working well on the '03 that I recently sold after purchasing a '12 650.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henerythe8th View Post
If your stator turns out to be bad (likely).
And check those pesky magnets!


Then my recommendation is to have it rewound.

If you go to the advanced search and enter my 'handle' and stator you will find where I mailed mine too and received a well done rewind with an epoxy coating that worked well and is still working well on the '03 that I recently sold after purchasing a '12 650.
I did the search but only found that you had replaced it, not rewoound it as one of the responders had suggested. It was the thread where GW had told you the difference of the 2 different numbers.


Nevermind, I found it in a different thread, thanks for the info.


jeff
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1970 H1 triple, a 1972 H1 triple, '74 RD350 in great shape & 1975 GT550 restored&built up and a beautiful, low mileage '73 CB350(same as my 1st bike), another '75 GT550, a ported 1974 H2 750, an all original 1975 H2 750 triple (purple of course), a scary fast '82 Yam 650Turbo running 18PSI, and 3 '75's, a H1, T500& RD350 for restoration.

Last edited by Jeff Kushner; 07-05-2012 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
Jeff, been there already! Probably the stator, but with the handful of magnet issues with the rotor it is probably a good thing to pull the magneto cover and inspect that also. You will have to do that anyway to install a new stator. First test the stator: Unplug the three wire connector going to the Regulator/Rectifier ( R/R ) under the left side cover under the seat. Using an Ohm meter check each wire to ground, if ANY of the wires show even a slight ready ( even under 1 ohm ) the stator is bad. You can also check output using an A/C voltmeter. Check across any two of the three wires, with the engine revving 5,000 rpms you should see at least 78 volts and all three should be putting near equal voltage.

The Electrosport or Ricks Stators don't have a good reputation for lasting. I am ordering one to put in my Vee so I can put it back stock but I will tell whoever buys it that I don't trust it. Provided it works when I install it, some don't.....
You were right, I pulled the cover and the magnets, two of them anyway, came out in my hand, the others were loose so I removed them. I tested as you described and got a big fat 0 across the board.

I'm not going to take the chance with the electro's, I've learned not to reinvent the wheel. I'll touch base with Henrey's suggetion tomorrow, otherwise I'll just order the oem.

I do a lot of touring and I'm def not a fair weather rider<LOL> so I can't take chances with my lighting system. When I installed the hologens, LED's were not available....since they are now, I'll probably order a set of those pretty high-dollar lights after I get my charging system squared away.....
You can see two coils darkened but honestly, I can't see any "damage" or real burning.

What do you think? And what do I use to re-glue the magnets back in?

jeff
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 102_0150.jpg (97.4 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 102_0154.jpg (95.2 KB, 59 views)
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My VStrom 1000 K7
1970 H1 triple, a 1972 H1 triple, '74 RD350 in great shape & 1975 GT550 restored&built up and a beautiful, low mileage '73 CB350(same as my 1st bike), another '75 GT550, a ported 1974 H2 750, an all original 1975 H2 750 triple (purple of course), a scary fast '82 Yam 650Turbo running 18PSI, and 3 '75's, a H1, T500& RD350 for restoration.
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:52 AM
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1st wire to wire you want near zero on a stator, should be small like 3 to 5 ohms but on some cheap meters may not.

You want mega OHMS from wires to the stator steel frame.

If you want a reliable system I would also go for the Shingen (sp) R/R and a new battery. IMHO it is a crudely balanced system. Anytime you over stress a part of it you are likely to have a cascade failure.

IF you ARE worried about lighting go for a HID conversion and then add the LED driving lights. You could get many times the light and probably almost stock wattage load.

Lastly just double check for frayed insulation etc. cause that could have caused the failures.

Run thin oil and keep her near full
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Last edited by richw; 07-06-2012 at 06:55 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2012, 08:40 AM
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Jeff, the pictures don't show obvious failure in the stator like you might expect. But, mine looked just like yours from that side, when removed the "back" side showed a burned area.

If you are comfortable with reglueing the magnets ( Personally I would do it on mine, had I not broken one of them ) then I would recommend JB Weld. It takes a long time to cure ( overnight for full cure ) and gives some time initially to work the magnets into place. There is NO issue with the metal that is supposed to be in JB Weld as far as the magnets go. I would prefer some type of clamp to hold them in place till cured. You don't want more than a film of epoxy under the magnet, clearance to rotor is tight. You might want to mark the magnets and put them back the way they came out-not sure about how the "polarity" of them needs to be addressed. Others have done the reglue procedure successfully.

I am not convinced that too much load is a cause of failure. Since these are oil cooled I cannot imagine 5-10 amps extra load will put it in the danger zone of overheating. I do suspect that age is effecting the magnets.....and when they come loose that does something to the stator.
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'12 DL 650- '04 DL 650- '03 DL 1000- '04 R 1150 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com
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