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DL 1000 [The Vee] For those bikes with two pipes

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Old 05-21-2012, 10:15 AM
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Default Replacing Chain and Sprockets this week, in need of advice.

I have a 2002 DL1000 with about 15k miles on it, and I am going to replace the cain and sprockets this week, I was hoping to solicit advice.

The chain is getting near the end of it's adjustment, and furthermore the links are starting to stick. I have cleaned them, but I am certain that the chain is the original chain and at 10 years old I am ready to replace it all.

My plan is to comprimise and go with the 17/43 setup, I think it is the best balance of smoother low-speed power and decent fuel economy. I am running stock right now and I can definitely see the need for more low end power, but I don't like to stop more than every 180-200 miles, so I don't want to burn through the gas.

Per reccommendation of the forum at large, I plan on ordering from SV racing parts, but I have a few questions:

1. What kind of link should I order? Do I need a special tool for the rivit type? Is there any advantage to the screw type or clip on? What is the best way to handle this?

2. Is it reasonable for me to plan to do this replacement myself? I am not terribly good mechanically, but I have managed to own three vinage bikes for the last 4 years with only one trip to the shop. Is there a good set of instructions on the forum somewhere?

3. Should I go with the 530 or 525 chain? What is the difference? How do I know I have the right chain for the 17/43?

4. Is there anything else I should do while I am in the middle of this process? The bike runs fine with the exception of needing a new chain.


Thanks,
Mike
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2012, 12:23 PM
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I'm in the same boat and came here for shopping advice.
I'm currently at 17-43 124 links in the chain.
Currently getting about 9000-10,000 mi from a set.
I'm going to 16-45 which should make it a little easier to use the o/d without running so fast.

My question is, do the 520, 525 and 530 chains all run on the same sprockets?

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:37 PM
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The 530 chain is wider than a 525 and the 520 has a smaller pitch or distance between rollers. 124 links is unlikely unless a 520 chain conversion was done. The stock chain has 112 links. I've read that a new 112 link chain is not quite long enough to handle a 17/43 combo. By and large, the larger the chain, the longer it will last so some people like the 530 conversion kit. Others want to keep unsprung weight down.

I don't recommend clip links. While failure is extremely rare, a broken chain can break an engine case. Screw links seem to work okay but you need to break the old chain. A grinder, hack saw or bolt cutter can handle that. With a proper chain tool, the head of a pair of chain pins or rivets should be ground down first too.

Chains often come with 120 links and need to be trimmed to size. A grinder to take a pin down flush and a chain tool to press the pin out is the best way to handle that.
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Last edited by greywolf; 05-21-2012 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:47 PM
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there's a lot of information out there if you read the forum.... or the interweb for that matter

520/525/530 all use different sprockets. Factory is 525, 530 is heavier grade, should last longer. I wouldn't go to 520, only benefit is lighter weight, but shorter service life. I have no idea what a 530 conversion entails, but my stock 525 has lasted about 17k miles with plenty of life left so I likely wouldn't bother switching. Whichever route you go, match the chain/sprockets.

Go with steel sprockets, longer service life.

Can't comment on gearing, as I'm still running factory setup.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:00 PM
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Just give Blair @ svracingparts a holler. He will have the answers to all your

concerns. He has helped me and many others on this site.
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
I don't recommend clip links. While failure is extremely rare, a broken chain can break an engine case. Screw links seem to work okay but you need to break the old chain. A grinder, hack saw or bolt cutter can handle that. With a proper chain tool, the head of a pair of chain pins or rivets should be ground down first too.
Plus One on Greywolf's comment. I was just offered (unsolicited) the opportunity to buy a new engine after chain broke on DL650. As a result of bent valves and cracked case I ended up buying a used engine with 15,000 miles on it. Cheaper to remove and replace than do a complete overhaul.

It is worth the money for a better chain and sprocket set . Lot's cheaper than replacing engine or overhaul of existing engine.
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Last edited by greywolf; 05-21-2012 at 01:26 PM. Reason: fixed quote bracket
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Old 05-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikepotter86 View Post
I have a 2002 DL1000 with about 15k miles on it, and I am going to replace the cain and sprockets this week, I was hoping to solicit advice.

The chain is getting near the end of it's adjustment, and furthermore the links are starting to stick. I have cleaned them, but I am certain that the chain is the original chain and at 10 years old I am ready to replace it all.
by the sounds of your post, you purchased the bike used

if your gonna ride 30,000 miles a year, I recommend 530 chain & sprockets, if yer only gonna ride 2000-3000 miles a year, stick with the 525, it should last another 5 years with that limited amount of miles
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:13 PM
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I just did a chain and sprocket replacement for my wee a few weeks ago. It was simple enough. My suggestions:

1. Buy a second master link with your purchase, especially if you're buying the EK chain from svracingparts. Its only $10. I screwed up and needed to break the chain, shorten it and then reconnect the chain. I live in Atlanta and could not find a single shop/retailer/dealer anywhere within a two hours drive who sells EK chains = PIA.

2. I used the $10 Harbor Freight chain tool. After seeing what the $100 chain tool looks like, yeah I saved $90. (its the same thing).

My error was, I laid out the new chain to the old chain, it was the same length so I thought I was good. Didn't take into consideration that the previous owner may have not had the correct length. Stupid considering I had the service manual sitting next to me.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:01 PM
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Thanks for all the advice everyone, I ordered the tool from Harbor freight and the chain/sproket kit from SV racing.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:44 PM
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Cush Hub Bearing and check your rubberfs
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