:::yawn:::

"natural harmonic frequency"

Hmmmm... if this is true, say if my clutch has a "natural harmonic frequency" at 3250 rpm, there out to be a second harmonic at 6500 rpm. Never noticed any rattles or nuttin' over 4K. I'm not sure I am buyin' this harmonic stuff. But I suppose all I have done is bait the "you don't know anything" and the "you don't understand what I am talking about" folks. Of course, if people start pointing out all the issues with centripetal force, etc. etc., then I will argue that we aren't talking about a "natural harmonic frequency."

Steve

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2008 DL1000, Two Brothers, PCV, etc., etc.
2008 GSX1340R Hayabusa, Velocity Racing Turbo, boost controller, water injected
2002 CBR600F4i
2008 GSX-R600, Akrapovic full Ti, PCV w/AutoTune
DynoJet 250 dynamometer (just learning to use it)

There doesn't have to be more than one natural resonant frequency though there are typically harmonics of lower amplitude at various octaves related to the strongest one.

So even if they are, you may not necessarily be aware of them as other vibration could mask them. The issue you can have is if several different devices have the same natural resonant frequency and then you have sort of sympathetic resonance occurring. Which is sort of like waves piggybacking on each other making the amplitud greater than the individual oscillations.

That is why tuning out NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) can be so difficult in vehicles as many components can have a similar natural resonant frequencies. Years ago major suspension bridges didn't do enough to dampen these oscillations or weren't tuned properly. Sometimes they destroyed by much lighter winds than they were designed for. Here is an example of a bridge brought down by only a 40 mph wind that happened to excite the bridge's natural harmonic resonance. It is also a good primer on the subject who don't understand the concept very well. Harmonics in general can be e very destructive force.

Resonance

With respect to the issue at hand, I personally haven't had much time to look into it. I come from an engineering background (aeronautical/aerospace). It seems plausible but this has turned into a dog fight between Protestants and Catholics and I try to stay out of religious wars.

Both my SV 1000 engines had noticeable vibrations through 7,000 rpm with their stock Suzuki baskets. This was once they had covered only 1,000 miles and under medium load. The heavier chudder was strongest at 3,500 rpm (too much else going on a 10,500 rpm to take notice).

Many with the re-engineered modified baskets write after their first road testing to say their "engine no longer chudders". Independantly and without prompting they then go on to say the engine vibrates much less or is smoother all the way through the range. This is reported by DL owners more than SV owners.

RealShelby,
To avoid down-time while I get a basket reworked with the shim mod, I think I'm going to go ahead and buy a replacement basket for my K3. Then I can modify the original basket at my leisure. (I think I can get the washers in myself. Then while I have it out, I'll find someone local to weld the retainer bridges.) Four questions regarding this:

Am I correct in undestanding that "the SV basket" can serve as a drop-in replacement for the DL requiring no other modification?

If so, is "the SV basket," with its two springs per slot, in your opinion, a preferred replacement for the original K3 DL basket in terms of chudder? In other words, would you expect "the SV basket" to last significantly longer than the K3 basket before chudder returns?

Assuming the answer to both of those questions is yes, can someone steer me to the specific part number for "the SV basket"?

Is the so-called "slipper" functionality of the SV clutch entirely a function of those extra springs? (I'm not seeking any "slipper" behavior; I just want a normal-acting clutch.)

Thanks,
James

how many miles does a clutch last under normal riding conditions?

There is really no such thing as normal. How the rider uses the clutch is the biggest factor. Higher mileage bikes usually have less clutch use as there are more 6th gear long distance stints. There is much more clutch use off road. Street riders can usually figure over 100,000 miles and dirt riders less.

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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A is just getting started.
Nicknames for posting ease on my part, Vee = all DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012+ DL650s

So, if buying a new basket I would see if the SV basket is available. Seem to be the same price and on the ones I have seen the top plate is heavier. Still a lot of money to spend when I could have a shim mod basket done and shipped back in a week!

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'12 DL 650- '04 DL 650- '03 DL 1000- '04 R 1150 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com

Greywolf is right about the durability of the clutches. I think they must be among the most durable clutches out there! That is as far as slipping or wearing down the fiber discs.

If you are talking about how long before "chudder" becomes noticeable, then many would agree it can start as low as 5K miles. Probably not bad enough for most to notice till they get more miles. Seems I do a lot of clutch mods on bikes with 20-30K, but the owners all say they have had it for quite a while. It is NOT going to fail on you, leave you stranded, or anything like that so as long as you can put up with it, ride!

__________________
'12 DL 650- '04 DL 650- '03 DL 1000- '04 R 1150 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com
Want straightforward easy to understand answers to clutch basket questions or concerns? E-mail Terry info@werksparts.com

And to add to others comments. The two parts that wear out in DL and SV baskets are the exact same parts. Centre bearing and the loose spring plate. I had a mix of over 90 of these completely in bits to modify this year alone. The springs are different and matched to the characteristic of each engine. You will have better results with the DL basket in the DL engine. An SV basket will only wear at the same rate and they have an additional build problem. Those extra springs are an after thought at design. They miss the outer plate they should bear on and skew off creating extra sets of vibrations that you just don't need in your DL.

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