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Foot Peg and Control Lowering Kit

72K views 115 replies 59 participants last post by  Wee van Cleef 
#1 · (Edited)
Yea! It's 2014 and we are still making them.

This complete kit is available now for $55 + POSTAGE.

Payments via Paypal or credit card at AdventureTech, LLC. - Home

After several prototypes that explored different changes to hieght and position forward, we have a clear winner. This kit moves the footpeg mounting plates and controls down 1" and 3/16" forward. THE CONTROLS ARE MOVED WITH THE FOOTPEGS SO THE FEEL IS LIKE STOCK WITH MORE ROOM FOR YOUR KNEES.

The plates are made of 6061-T6 aluminum. I explored using steel, but after examining the strength numbers and the DL1000 cast aluminum foot peg plates I decided aluminum was the best overall choice. They are quite strong and capable of supporting more than the entire rated load of the bike.

THEY ARE AVAILABLE IN BLACK OR BARE ALUMINUM (to match bikes with silver frames)



The bolt on process is super simple for all bikes except 2002 and 2003 DL1000. These early DL1000's may need to modify their exhaust heat shields slightly to accomadate the lowered rear brake clevis.



Controls feel like stock. No weird reach for the levers.



The gear shift side was surprising simple to adjust. Simply loosen the clamp on the gear shift shaft, slide it off and then back on again in a different position. Done.



An installation video can be found here http://www.adventuretech.biz/footpeg-and-control-lowering-instructions.html.

Written instructions are as follows:

The numbers here refer to the Suzuki parts manual diagrams.

Brake side:



1. Place a straight edge on the foot peg to see the existing position of the brake lever in relation to the foot-peg.

2. Remove the cotter pin (#13) and the pin (#11) from the yoke (#4). The yoke has a jam nut inside of it. You can remove it with an open end adjustable wrench adjusted to the width of the yoke. Hold the jam nut on top of the yoke with the appropriate size wrench and hold the yoke with the open end adjustable. Loosen the two and the yoke will spin offIt simply screws off.

3. Remove the two bolts that hold the stock foot-peg and control plates to the frame and remove the foot-peg/control plates.

4. Attach the adapter plate to the stock foot-peg and control plate using the flush mount screws and ny-lock nuts.

5. DL1000 only - Attach extension spring to brake lever. Attach the extension spring to the stock brake switch connector (springt). An extension spring is not needed for the DL650.

6. Attach the adapter plate to the frame using the stock button socket head screws removed earlier. Blue Locktite 242 may be desriable.

7. Place one jam-nut (stock or new, it doesn't matter) on the rear brake cylinder push rod. Screw up the rod so that one full thread is above the nut.

8. Screw the coupling nut onto the rear brake push rod.

9. Screw the set-screw into coupling nut. Note that the set scrcew has one end that accepts an allen screw.

10. Screw a jam-nut onto the set screw.

11. Inser the set-screw into the yoke that previously attached the brake push rod to the rear brake lever.

12. Inser a jam nut into the yoke and tighten the jam-nut on the set=screw.

13. Adjust the brake lever hieght by adjusting the position of the coupling nut and jam-nuts.

Note to DL650 ABS owners - You may need to cut a zip tie holdingf the electrical harness to the frame to free up some slack in the rear brake electrical line. The zip tie is located under the seat behind the seat behind the tank.

Gear shift side:



1. Place a straight edge on the foot peg to see the existing position of the gear shift lever in relation to the foot-peg.

2. Loosen and completely withdraw/remove the bolt (part #36) that holds the shift arm (#27) to the gear shift shaft (#18)

3. Remove the two bolts that hold the stock foot-peg and control plates to the frame.

4. Remove the foot-peg/control plates from the frame and slide the gear shift arm from the gear shift shaft.

5. Attach the adapter plate to the stock foot-peg and control plate with flush mount screws and ny-lock nuts.

6. Attach the adapter plate to the frame using the stock button socket head screws removed earlier. Again, blue Locktite 242 may be desriable.

7. Slide the gear shift arm over the gear shaft shaft in the position that results in the closest approximation of the stock position abserved in setp 1.

8. Re-install and tighten the shift arm retaining bolt (part #36).
 
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#3 ·
I've had the kit on my last two bikes. I believe the time I have been able ride has been extended as my knee and hip joints have been the most uncomfortable parts of riding. I've tried other methods that did not work well as the controls were not moved along with the pegs.
 
#4 ·
Rick,
Is there any reason the SW-Motech convertible pegs won't work with the lowering kit. I am ordering the pegs but would like your lowering kit too. Thanks.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Any peg that works to replace the stock pegs will work with the lowering kit. The kit moves the entire peg anchor down.
 
#8 ·
was wondering about these, but i have an 03 model and dont want to "Modify" it..lol my problem is that i am tall 6'3" and was wondering if i would be better served by just getting a taller seat? i get cramps at times when i ride long distances due to my legs being folded up due to the short peg distance.. don't have that problem on my XR..
 
#9 ·
A taller seat is one option. Peg lowering and raising links are also good options for taller riders. Vees and Wees have better aerodynamics when the front is lowered or the rear is raised about 1/2" or 10-15mm.
 
#10 ·
I just installed a set of these on my bike this morning. The most time consuming part was removing that %$@# cotter pin on the brake linkage, but after that everything went smoothly. I can definitely feel the extra room (34" inseam), but there was an added benefit. I recently bought a new pair of riding boots that were considerably beefier and stiffer than my old pair. It was creating difficulty in getting my left toe under the shift lever. Installation of Rick's lowering kit created a more favorable offset between shift lever and peg and I can now easily get my boot into position. HOWEVER, in all fairness let me be clear for any prospective buyers of Rick's kit, if you wish to keep the original shift lever/peg offset, that is easily achieved. The extra room afforded by Rick's kit allowed a modified offset for me. Think of it as an added benefit to consider for anyone contemplating purchasing this kit. For long-term ride comfort it's money well-spent.

I give it two thumbs up. :thumbup:
 
#12 ·
The cotter pin was a challenge but the kits are well worth it and the rest of the assembly was a breeze. Really enjoying his kit!
 
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#13 ·
Upjohn,

Thanks for the review.

Swedge,

The kit is a bolt-on affair and easily taken off to restore the bike to stock. It's a completely reversible modification.

Feel free to call me to discuss options if you like. I have the taller seat, raising link, foot peg lowering kit discussion several times a week. There are lot of things that can be done, most all of which are reversible.

richlandrick

PS my phone number is on our website under "contact."
 
#14 · (Edited)
It took me a very long time to figure out how to make a foot peg and control lowering kit. I literally thought about it for years and evaluated several possibilities before finding the optimum parameters of movement forward and down.

Unfortunately it takes minutes for any low life scum bag to purchase our kit using an assumed name and steal the design.

Based on feedback from customers and experience our kit was expanded to include parts for lengthening the gear shift linkage.

Buy it from a thief, or buy it from the guy who created it. It's your choice.
 
#18 ·
Another benefit of the lowering kit...

I purchased the lowering kit not so much for extra legroom (since I have a 32" inseam and highway pegs to stretch out on) but in order to get a good reach to my handlebars when standing on the pegs. I have bar risers and I've adjusted the handlebars but standing on the foot pegs I still had to either hunch over or squat too much to reach the handlebars. This made it difficult to ride standing for any period of time and to have good control of the bike. Rick's kit was a perfect fit, high quality product, with all of the necessary hardware, and great installation instructions. :thumbup:
 
#19 ·
Rick , installed the lowering kit last night in the garage. It was flooding at the house so no test ride. I could tell immediately sitting on the bike that it was going to be better for my long legs. And hopping up off the seat is easier. Rode to work this morning , and my 20 minute commute confirmed that this was a good decision. Nice product.
 
#23 ·
2002 Vee Install - Interference with Heat Shield

Rick....As you mention, the older bikes have an interference with the heat shield and the brake clevis. Has anyone modified their heat shield with success? Any insights into what works, it relatively easy.

The heat shield is welded onto the pipe from what I can see, and I'm not into pulling the exhaust off the bike. Can the offending section of heat shield be cut out or banged/bent inward sufficiently to clear the clevis?

Anybody out there with experience/pics on this install.

I have a 38" inseam, big boots, tall seat is on the list anyway but moving the pegs down is certainly a good idea, for a bunch of reasons...like getting my knees off the engine guards....although sometimes I use that advantage in the twisties LOL).

I will probably go with an aftermarket shift lever anyway, so I can further open up the space for my Tech7's (size 16 guys!) to fit. I would really like to try out Rick's kit!
 
#24 ·
Maz-

As far as I know, the interference hasn't actually stopped anybody from installing the kit. They just add a little more bend to the shield to get it out of the way. I just feel obligated to point it out before someone buys the kit.

Sounds like you may be a good candidate for the shifter relocation kit I'm working on today.

Rick
 
#25 ·
Rick,

Just noticed the thread on the shift lever. I would be interested to see what you working on. As for the controls lowering, I am also investigating the option of replacing the pegs, e.g. the Buell Ulysses pegs drop 1" on the stock mounts, and Precision Engineering has some nice adventure pegs which accomplish lowering on the stock mounts.

In my case, I don't really need to shift the pegs and controls together (on the brake side yes, but shift side no). I think the most flexibility in fit for me is customizing the controls and pegs separately on both sides.

I think I can lower the brake lever down by modifying the linkage....but replacing the brake lever itself might be needed also (hmm...maybe there can be some improvement on the brake lever also for adventure use....it gets busted up too for a lot of folks). However the brake is a bit easier....you only got to get on top of it.

The shift lever.....yes, longer, more angles, and maybe direct connection to the engine to eliminate the linkages....all things of interest for me.

Marc
 
#26 ·
forgot to add.....folding tips on the lever....
 
#27 ·
I had knee surgery in December 2013 and the recovery has been slow. Pretty uncomfortable riding my 2011 V-Strom. I remember reading about the peg lowering kits on this forum so I decided to investigate it further. Saturday morning I ordered a peg lowering kit from adventuretech and got an order shipment notification Saturday by noon. It arrived in the mail on Monday. Installed on my V-Strom after work on Tuesday.

Man what a difference. I had always thought this product was for really tall guys. I am only 5' 10" and it sure made a big difference for me. The best $55 I have spent. These things are a great value at twice the price. I don't see any negatives but there are a lot positive.

I highly recommend the product.
 
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