I have a 07 V with 50,000 miles,and like most V owners I have had a fueling issue since new.I'm wondering why it is worse in some gears than others??.My big problem is between 2,500-3,000 rpms,in 1st gear it's ok,in 2nd it starts to show up.In 3rd-5th gear it is unridable if I try to hold it between those rpm's.Why is it different in some gears even though it is the same rpm??.
A TRE fools the ECM into "thinking" the bike is always in 4th so removes all restrictions except exceeding the red line. Low gear restrictions control the secondaries so the fuel/air combo is affected though there is a maximum rpm in any gear. Though many people like the effect, a fuel map change is the real solution. A TRE has a smaller effect and the increase in top speed will encourage some people to try going faster than the chassis and aerodynamics can handle safely.
I have a 2012 Vee that has been re-mapped with a PC-V. It had issues but not as bad as you describe. Are the symptoms getting worse as the bike gets more time on it? What is it doing? Have you done the chudder test to rule it out?
Just my thoughts.
Yes it is getting worse as the miles pile up,and yes I have the clutch chudder ( I have had it for more than 30,000 miles ).Can you use the TRE and a PC ??.
You can use both. I have both installed. The PC helped a lot and the TRE seemed to add a little pep but I don't think it necessary.
Although I only have 4k on the bike I think I am in the beginning stages of chudder. I plan to remove the basket this winter and send it off for a re-build.
The PC came with a pre-programmed map that made the bike run great, much better than stock. However I plan to take it to a local tuner and get a custom dyno tune.
higher gears require more power per same RPM, due to increased speeds. i have pure stock 07 ECU in my 05 DL1 and it works ok for me. IMHO, if ya keep youre R's around or above 4k , most of your problems will just simply go away.
I agree with the above 4000rpm and most of your problems go away, but it doesn't go to plan in peak hour traffic. With my two bros cans, 4000 rpm is when the noise is similar to the space shuttle take off! Quietens down again and then re ignites at 7000rpm.
As for the original post, I have PC3 and TRE and still have some issues at low rpm
Quit analyzing it. Quit thinking about it. I drove myself crazy with iridium plugs, TBS, TPS adjustment, air filter cleaning, plug wires, coil,....etc.
Then I broke down and had mine remapped. Instant bliss.
No surging, no hiccups. I can ride it at constant rpms in the 3,000 to 4,000 rpm range in stop and go traffic without cussing it. And it still runs like a scalded cat above 5,000 rpm to the redline.
Mine had mild chudder before and even less now due to smoother running under load. It really should be done to every Vee when new...and I suspect those who say their Vee is fine are not savvy enough or picky enough to care. Every one I have seen has screwed up lean stock mapping. The PC route is fine also if you are a fiddler, but a yosh remap for a rider like me who doesn't make intake or exhaust mods is better IMO.
But finding a yosh box is difficult,anybody know who has one in the Seattle area !!.
I rode 50,000 miles with it like it is becuase I was pissed that Suzuki made it like this and didn't think I should be paying for it,also I planned to get rid of it when it was paid off.Now it will be paid offed in a few monthes but my wife says we can't afford a new bike now sooooo I'm not going to ride it like this anymore,fix the fueling and the chudder and get a new shock !!!.
i did the yosh box fix. worked ok for me but, i lost 6 mpg. that is one reason i went back to pure stock ECU. its just so much easier and less expensive for me to simply change the way i ride the vee. now my yearly average mpg is over 46 mpg. see fuelly link below. g-luck & ride safe.
Hello out there hate to jump in here but my 07 does the exact same things, 30k miles. It is on to some very strange behavior lately though. Just rode down to Homestead/Miami from Akron Oh. for the last nascar race what a trip. we did 3000 miles in 6 days, anyhow the bike ran great except when we had to stop for gas after running at about 80 for 2 hours straight. It would die out completely, I had to keep the r's up over 4000 to keep it going. It smokes black like super rich condition. Needless to say it is very difficult to ride that way. It would eventually come out of it and run normal until the next sudden stop, then it would start all over again. I dont know if it is heat related because the farther north we got it quit doing it cause the temps were in the 40's. Any one have some suggestions? Thanks
Hello out there hate to jump in here but my 07 does the exact same things, 30k miles. It is on to some very strange behavior lately though. Just rode down to Homestead/Miami from Akron Oh. for the last nascar race what a trip. we did 3000 miles in 6 days, anyhow the bike ran great except when we had to stop for gas after running at about 80 for 2 hours straight. It would die out completely, I had to keep the r's up over 4000 to keep it going. It smokes black like super rich condition. Needless to say it is very difficult to ride that way. It would eventually come out of it and run normal until the next sudden stop, then it would start all over again. I dont know if it is heat related because the farther north we got it quit doing it cause the temps were in the 40's. Any one have some suggestions? Thanks
The first thing I would do is put the bike in dealer diagnostic mode (a search will give you the steps) then check the TPS settings. If off like mine were a readjust "may" fix it. Or a new TPS is possible. My readjust has lasted for 20,000 miles now.
The are other easy things to check like the Throttle body boots but sounds like TPS to me.
Yes, I did lose mpg based on the map that was loaded onto the PC-V for my bike. The consumption occurs in the lower revs mostly because that it where it is too lean. I plan to take it into consideration when I have it dyno'd.
It's going to be hard to have it both ways, good milage and performance. I'll just have to find a compromise but will never go back to the rediculous stock set-up that meets EPA regulations.
The other reason for more consumption after the PC is what can be called the wow factor. It is just so much better that you can't help it. LOL!
The bike runs like crap because its lean. There is no way to have your cake and eat it too unless you buy a wee which has a more modern engine head design.
Yosh or fuel controller are both dumping more fuel into the bike in the sweet spot rpm where you ride a lot.
I lost around 3 or 4 mpg and would never consider stock mapping. Lean is bad for an engine in other ways unless designed that way from the get go. My Vee would ping under load at throttle roll on before mapping. NOT GOOD.
Hey Scott E Bonds, Thanks for the reply. Will do alittle research on here and see what it does. I rode it to work the last couple of days and it ran fine the only time it does it is on really long run the tank out runs. It has always had the typical 2800/3000 stumble , but I've learned to keep it out of that range so that isn't a problem. Will keep ya posted thanks
For what its worth if you decide to buy a PC; I recently when on the search and bought a PC. In the process, I found the PCIII is/was out of stock everywhere and were on backorder. Word on the Streets it that Power Commander is not making more of them and is moving on to the V's for whatever reason-i.e. EPA. So, I had to get a PCV for my K2 Vee- which Power Commander doesn't directly offer. I went through Fuelmotousa.com for mine. They sell a retrofit- and also offer fantastic support. Since my purchase I have gotton 3 new maps made by their tech department (needed after mods were made.) They also have are set up where you can run your PCV and then upload your mad tables to them where they can tweak a map for your trouble areas. So far so good and I have been very happy with the results afterwards. Just my .02 worth.
If you have a PC V you can have two maps loaded by custom tune, One for power and the other for MPG and you can put the switch on the handlebars and change it on the fly...
All your big bores come fat on the big end anyway,,
Mike
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