Originally Posted by austin03
My 1K is all stock. I have the PC III USB. What -, + settings in your low, mid and high range have you configured to take care of the 3k - 4k shutter (hesitation?)
I have been working to develop a map for my stock K6. I found the "custom dyno tuned" map a very good starting point. The fueling in the idle to 4,500 range is quite good on that map and not excessively rich.
I have leaned it out just a hair in the very low rpm ranges and have been blending it with the Jett and Cheff's power/economy maps in the mid to upper ranges. When I get a map I feel works well on my bike I will post it up.
I have been playing around with the accelerator pump feature. The supporting info for this feature is almost non-existent. I talked with the dyno jet tech support yesterday and learned a few things.
What I was surprised to learn is you can actually remove fuel with this feature also by using a negative % number. The Tech guy told me that the stock ECU includes an accelerator pump "feature" and that often when the base maps are richened up a bit too much it can help to remove a bit of fuel at times. I'm have not tried this yet. He also said it works completely independent from the fuel map, it simply works on top of the map as it were.
My goal was to reduce the bog when you whack the throttle open fast for passing on the freeway. If I roll it on it's right there, but if I yank it open fast it bogs just like a carb with no accelerator pump. That's the only time I want the feature to come into play. The tech suggested a lower throttle sensitivity number, maybe 70-75% (???). I wish they would publish a relationship graph for this feature between the speed of throttle motion vs sensitivity so you could project what you want. I was told "just play with it", ya ok.
I have decided to focus on getting the map as good as I can and then look to the AP feature if need be only for the conditions I described. I want to play with it some myself for a while to get a feel for the changes but in the end I may very well pony up the $300 to have it professionally dyno tuned by Jett Tune who is close to me and highly regarded. My end goal is good smooth power with decent economy (read in the low 40s if possible).
In regards to fuel economy numbers posted, I wonder how many have corrected their speedo/odo to be accurate? If the speedo reads fast you will get false mpg numbers reading higher than reality. Even a stock speedo will be approx 7-10% higher than it should be as that's about how far off they are by design.
I am running the speedo healer calibrated with my GPS. I ran the Jett map as is and got about 33mpg, ouch. I tweaked the map manually and got it up to about 37mpg. Now I'm looking for another 5-6mpg at cruise if possible but I'm already running some pretty negative numbers in the cruise range based on Cheff's maps and don't want to go too lean. If I could just get to a real 200 mile range I'll be happy. I'm at about 150-175 now depending on conditions.